NYFW Report Day 4: Looking to the Future with Virtual Fashion

New York Fashion Week returned in person this season with a stellar lineup of fashion shows and presentations from new designers and household names alike. However, several major brands chose to remain virtual including Jonathan Simkhai, Alice and Olivia, and more. It seems this pandemic practicality is here to stay for the fashion world. At NYFW: The Talks a panel of experts explored what we can expect from virtual fashion shows, the metaverse, and more in the future. 

The panel held at Spring Studios included experts on the Metaverse, digital fashion design, fashion marketing, and Vogue Business Senior Innovation Editor Maghan McDowell. 

The panelists focused on the future of fashion in the metaverse and how designers and brands can continue to reach customers in an increasingly virtual world. One major theme the panelists covered was the virtual fashion show. While live streams and fashion films have been around for years, technical advances in the metaverse and the rapid digital adoption that occurred during Covid have given a new meaning to the term virtual fashion show. Now, audience members can participate in virtual runway shows as if they were really there, using personalized avatars and even gaining special access to backstage footage. While virtual fashion shows allow people to participate from anywhere including the comfort of their own homes, it doesn't necessarily mean that the shows will be any less exclusive. For luxury brands, virtual fashion shows offer another avenue to provide a personalized experience for VIP customers around the world. Virtual fashion also provides for endless creativity and the panelists agreed that virtual shows are a great way to find out what fashion can look like when it is not confined by the laws of physics. Some exciting design possibilities could be in our future and as Maghan McDowell pointed out, we could even get to wear virtual fashion items while on Zoom! 

The panelists also discussed the future of how physical clothing items will integrate with virtual worlds. According to panelist John Lynden, CEO of Mythical Games, video games and virtual worlds offer the perfect environment for luxury brands to test out virtual pieces of fashion to an existing customer base. Panelist Umindi Francis CBO at Infinite World agreed that studying use cases and the success of exclusive digital merchandise in video games is a great way for brands to dip their foot into the future of digital commerce. According to the panelists, a future where every luxury purchase comes with a digital twin in the metaverse could be closer than we think. There are numerous benefits to this idea and panelist Daria Shapovalova and CEO of a virtual fashion store DressX pointed out that it would make verifying luxury items in the resale market fast, easy, and accurate. Perhaps more so than ever before. 

Some brands like Dior, have already begun to test out the virtual world partnering with video games to offer exclusive products while other luxury brands have partnered with young creators to inform on strategy. According to the panelists, the new perspectives have been energizing for everyone involved. According to Umindi Francis just as social media has become a key marketing strategy for fashion brands, a Web 3 strategy will be key in the future and a successful Web 3 strategy must include collaboration. 

Whether the metaverse was always an inevitable part of fashion's future or our post-pandemic world has created this opportunity one thing is clear: virtual fashion is here to stay. 

NYFW Ones to Watch: Colin Locascio AW22 Presentation

 The Colin Locascio presentation on the final day of NYFW may have been a quiet event compared to some of the more well known shows of the season but it was not one to miss! I am labeling this designer as one to watch as the style and skill in this breakout collection definitely stood out. 

Colin Locascio who is a new designer on the scene made his NYFW debut with a brightly colored Autumn Winter collection full of whimsical designs and surprising details. The designer may be new to having his own label but he has spent several years in the industry working for some of the top brands such as Marc Jacobs and designing custom pieces for celebrities including Kendall and Kylie, Bella Hadid, and more. His design background and experience showed through in this season's collection which had notes of Marc Jacobs artistic refinement mixed with loud celebrity style. The collection was described as designed for the outer-borough girls and pays homage to the designer's roots in Queens. 

The collection notes stated, "For AW22, we looked to our favorite Bridge and Tunnel gals from TV -- Adriana from the Sopranos, Betty Suarez from Ugly Betty, and of course Fran from the Nanny to name a few. Each character has her own defined style, and we were interested in mixing the sexy, the quirky, and the absurd. For AW22, we also leaned into a grittier approach to our RTW, referencing the bridge and tunnel teens in the South London Club Scene in the late 80’s early 90's. Key items are our patch worked vegan leather trench and bustier dress, our 3-D crushed velvet floral puffer and micro mini set, our tinsel eyelash knitwear, and our brand signature printed mesh with 3 original prints this season." 

My favorite piece was the 3-d crushed velvet floral puffer and micro mini skirt set.

 This piece incorporated so many trends for the Fall season including bright and unexpected colors, and the elements of whimsical 3-D tech inspired fashion. The idea of bringing creations from the virtual world to life seemed to be a common theme and this was one of my favorite representations. The collection also spoke to the sentiment of recovering from the pandemic and keeping the fun energy going even in the colder months. Another one of my favorite pieces was the puffer that featured fun vibrant prints and from afar looked like a typical streetwear piece but up close had a delicately bejeweled drawstring.

Little elegant details like that were everywhere in this collection giving the clothes a very Hollywood effortless cool touch. No doubt inspired by his work with celebrities a Colin Locascio piece will make any wearer feel like an A-lister. I can't wait to see what's next for this exciting brand! 

NYFW The Talks: The State of Fashion Journalism

On the fourth day of NYFW I attended the Fashion Journalism panel held at Spring Studios where several household names in fashion journalism came to speak on some of the historic moments and scandals in the fashion press over the years and the state of the industry today. Panelists Bridget Foley former editor of WWD, Lauren Sherman of Business of Fashion, Dr. Valerie Steele director and chief curator of the museum at FIT and Emil Wilbekin editor and founder of Native Son shared their thoughts on how things have changed during Covid, what TikTok means for fashion journalists, and more. After a whirlwind 2 years of historical events that have turned things upside down for many, journalism may look a bit different but these journalists are committed to continuing to report on all things fashion. 

Social media has been a huge part of the fashion industry for years now and like brands, fashion publications have embraced connecting with their audiences on these platforms. However, due to the accelerated digital adoption that happened during Covid lockdowns, more people than ever have joined social media and are embracing even the newest platforms like TikTok at rapid rates. #FashionTok as its known on the platform has become a worldwide community that encompasses every aspect of fashion from amateurs to legendary professionals. The community has also become known as somewhat of a counterculture with many prominent users sharing controversial opinions and going against the traditional norms of the industry. TikTokers such as Caroline Vazzana have been able to gain more success and recognition on the platform than through traditional jobs in fashion media. So how can traditional publications navigate this new space? 

Bridget Foley shared her thoughts on the platform saying, "I think people want to hear from their peers which TikTok is great for, but they also want to hear from those traditional authority figures whose opinions are informed by years of industry experience." 

The panelists echoed this outlook when discussing social media. Traditional fashion publications can take on the role of experts sharing opinions and verified stories readers know they can trust. While social media platforms like TikTok can serve as a place for people to hear the opinions of their peers and have more open conversations that aren't dominated by corporate fashion's interests. The panelists also discussed the unique phenomenon of TikTok fashion vloggers pointing out that they stand out among social media users as a group that truly cares about what they are talking about. 

The panelists also pointed out that the counterculture found in these communities could be a reaction to the consolidation of the fashion industry over the years. Bridget Foley shared that she had witnessed firsthand how the industry had transformed over the years into a corporate-driven environment. This shift has touched all areas of the industry including designers, consumers and of course journalists. One important effect the reorganization of the industry had was how we define what may be perceived as a scandal and how it is covered by the media. Panelists shared some of the major scandals they had covered throughout the years and discussed how those same scandals would be received if they had happened in the present day. Scandals like copyright issues, designers copying one another's work, and giving credit to independent artists have all been hot topics in recent years. The panelists pointed out that in today's fast-fashion economy copycats are not as scandalous as they once were and it can sometimes be impossible to trace back where an idea originated from. However, one of the more positive effects of social media is that it has now become easier for designers and brands to credit independent artists whose work they may have used by shouting them out on social media. In recent years it has become an expectation for big designers to give credit where it is due when using work from small independent artists whether it be in prints, graphics etc. 

The topic of fast fashion is also a controversial subject in the industry right now and the panelists addressed the fast-paced fashion calendar that has taken over in recent years. This has led to difficulty for designers to be new and create because we are constantly inundated with newness. With an "on to the next" attitude, it is hard to reflect on things that stand out which is a challenge fashion journalists must contend with when covering new products. The fashion industry is creativity on demand and many designers have compared the feeling to being on a treadmill year round and journalists have also had to change their working style to keep up with the new normal. But, after the world was put on pause for 2 years during the pandemic, the panelists concluded that there is hope for the future. Everyone agreed that there is an urge for change, for something new. And that there is no substitute for in person events. 

Another challenge fashion journalists face with the advent of social media is the blind enthusiasm that emerges from the 24/7 nature of these platforms. It can be difficult to publish negative opinions and still get eyes on a piece when you are going against the flow of the social media hype train according to the panelists. Does this make fashion a more forgiving industry than other creative professions? Designers are often not subject to some of the harsh criticisms that other creators may receive on a regular basis. The panelists pointed out that the industry media often does not need to be as critical since the general public is already so critical of fashion. However, journalists also face a challenge from bigger brands who may control the media. 

After attending this insightful panel looking back on the evolution of fashion journalism it has definitely changed my opinion on some of these controversies. Let me know what you think in the comments! 

10 Years of Eckhaus Latta: It Starts with Community

Designer duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta celebrated their brand's 10 year anniversary with a star-studded runway show at the Standard Hotel on Saturday night during New York Fashion Week. Coming off an emotional night celebrating the artistic evolution of Eckhaus Latta the pair spoke about their personal and professional journeys at New York Fashion Week: The Talks this evening during "10  Years of Eckhaus Latta" the panel. The unlikely pair from RISD started off by recounting their days as a budding team during their final year at art school. "We both had mutual friends and knew of each other but we didn't plan on meeting or being friends." they said. 

While Mike had studied Sculpture and Fine Arts, Zoe studied textiles but neither imagined they would be working in fashion only a short time later. After graduating, they both decided to move to New York City together where they hoped to pursue careers in fine arts as creators. They recounted that while living in the city they both got jobs working in fields related to their degree but quickly realized that pursuing a life as a fine arts creator would be incredibly lonely which eventually led them to exploring the close knit world of fashion. 

Zoe told the story of how they decided to start the brand one day after working for weeks to enter a fashion competition before the submission deadline. The two had worked day and night non-stop to create a collection for a fashion competition they had heard about last minute. Zoe remembered them running to the post office to mail the entry and being so tired they couldn't read the customs forms. After finally submitting their work they waited to hear back but never did. So instead, on a whim they decided to go ahead with the collection on their own. 

Mike recalled the early days of starting the brand saying, "There was a very steep learning curve. We made a lot of pieces that weren't functional garments." However, they both agreed that taking a non-traditional route into fashion design helped contribute to their success saying, "If we had taken a more traditional path I don't know if we would have lasted in a big designer house." According to the designers, being young and excited to learn and try new things helped contribute to their success. "The brand really started out as an exploration of how to make clothing" said Mike. 

While working on the brand they realized that it could serve as a platform to make art surrounded by people and in collaboration with friends and colleagues. They fell in love with the community of fashion and knew that this was where they wanted to be. Their love for the process of creating with others really showed through during this panel. It was so inspiring to hear about their journey and really spoke to the positive side of the fashion community. While fashion has often been portrayed as an exclusive club and there is certainly truth to that in some areas of the industry, this conversation showed what fashion can really be when creators combine skillsets to bring designs to life in the store and on the runway. The collaborative nature of the industry is a truly unique experience. 

After finding some success with their brand, the pair was eventually asked to create an exhibition for the Whitney museum which both designers described as a highlight of their career thus far. They said, "As art school nerds we loved the opportunity to work on this project." The theme of community came up again as the designers recalled that besides getting to work on a real-life art exhibit, this was a favorite project because "It was probably the most collaborative project we've ever done and we got to work with so many of our friends." The exhibition explored art and fashion and asked questions about where they intersect. Over the years the Eckhaus Latta brand has certainly shown that fashion can be a wearable art form so they were well equipped for the task. 

When asked what advice they would give to young creatives the theme of collaboration came up again. Zoe said, "Everybody needs help in one way or another in this industry. You have to be willing to ask for help and reciprocate." 

Mike also addressed collaboration saying, "You have to trust your intuition. Sometimes a project will just feel right and other times it may not. You have to be ok with taking risks and trust your instincts." 

Reflecting on the past can often lead us to wonder about the future. When it comes to looking towards the next 10 years and beyond the pair told the audience they are taking things day by day. Zoe said, "Yesterday was the 10 year anniversary, and now today it's back to work." 

Mike added that for him the future is about creating new challenges for himself as a creator and pushing himself. As for any concrete future plans, the pair left the audience with an insightful piece of wisdom saying, "We'd rather be a slow burn than a flash in the pan. For better or worse. Worse is that sometimes things are very slow But today we're here." 

NYFW Celebrates Black History Month with Black in Fashion Panel

Fashion month, which kicks off in February during black history month is a great time to showcase the diversity of talent in the industry. This year NYFW held a panel featuring black creators from all areas of the industry to celebrate the "Black in Fashion" community. NYFW also featured a special showcase of designers called BLK Showroom that honored black designers. 

The panel featured several successful fashion industry professionals from the black community including Moana Luu Global Chief Content officer of Essence Magazine, Aurora James designer and founder of the 15 percent pledge, and Rashad Robinson President of the Color of Change. 

The panelists discussed the progress that had been made in the industry and what challenges still lay ahead. It was an empowering discussion full of positive energy! In recent years there has been an increased focus from corporations and the fashion industry as a whole on diversity and inclusion work. The panelists pointed out that despite increased commitments and funding from many corporations it is still hard to measure the results of these investments. One important point they all agreed on was increased accountability for such programs and funding. The panelists agreed it is important for everyone to know where this money is going and also pointed out that DEI work cannot be treated differently within an organization. "DEI cannot be the only place in a company that fails year over year. with no consequences." said Rahsad Robinson. 

This issue is not exclusive to the fashion industry but nevertheless, it was great to hear what is needed from the voices within the community.

Moana Luu brought up another important point when it comes to corporate structure. She highlighted the importance of having diversity at all levels of a company and ensuring that diversity was not just targeting one group but representing everyone including women, and people from all ethnicities. She pointed out that black stories are often told from a narrow point of view and they do not include people who identify with multiple ethnicities. She also spoke about the power of social media and how it has opened opportunities for people to share their voices and be heard. It was so informative to hear from the perspective of a woman who has worked for a large publication throughout her career. She said, "Social media has become the real media...the power is ours today not the media's". The panelists echoed her thoughts pointing out many black creators who were at first rejected traditional roles within the industry but found success and an audience on social media. She also pointed out that when diverse mentors are promoted it benefits the whole company and gives younger workers someone to connect with and learn from. This point about creating more accessible networking for young professionals in the industry is so important. She ended the panel with an inspiring statement telling everyone, "Life is about opportunity you have to ask for what you want." 

NYFW Day 2: Deity New York, Thriving with Thrifting, and More!

The second day of NYFW was another busy day filled with shows and events around the city. I started my morning off heading to the Tiffany Brown show held at Slate NY in the flatiron district. The young designer made her NYFW debut this season with a fun and flirty collection. This collection departed from many of the major designers in that it did not feature bright colors for winter and stuck with more traditional tones such as browns and nudes. However, the dresses and looks were infused with a young and fun spirit often featuring cut outs and matching separates. 

After this show I headed back to Spring studios for the Second lifestyle panel featuring a discussion with some of the city's leading vintage dealers. The panel featured Emma Rogue TikTok star who recently opened her own vintage boutique in the city, Mina Le fashion and culture analyst and Marie Laboucarie founder of Nina Gabbana vintage. The panel was moderated by Vogue vintage fashion writer Liana Satenstein. 

I closed out the night at the Deity New York presentation which was also held at Spring studios in the lounge. This sophisticated collection featured some of my favorite colors including fuchsias with bow accents and glitter. I loved the tailoring and sharp styles in this collection as it was perfect for a businesswoman on the go but also retained feminine qualities with the pretty details. The presentation featured free sparkling beverages for guests to enjoy while admiring the collection on display along with the collection video which was playing in the background. 

  

NYFW Day 1: 11 Honore Brings Diversity to the Runway at NYFW

To close out my first day of NYFW I attended the 11 Honore show at Spring Restaurant and lounge. The designer presented an amazing lineup of everyday staples for women of all sizes. The runway stretched throughout the whole restaurant and guests enjoyed complimentary rose as everyone mingled waiting for the show to begin. The collection featured bold and bright colors that emerged as a trend for this Fall during Fashion week. There were hot pinks, greens. electric blues and more. 

The clothing style reflected everyday wear as well as a few evening wear pieces. Silky button up shirts, pencil skirts, and pantsuits were the main staples. These pieces were particularly interesting as they were made specifically for women with different body types and the models in the show represented all sizes and shapes. It was a refreshing showing of diversity from an up and coming NYFW designer Danielle WIllimas Eke. While in recent years we have seen more variety in runway shows from some fashion designers the standard show especially during official fashion weeks remains lacking in diverse body types. It was great to see fitted clothing and button up shirts made for plus sizes as the clothing was made to fit rather than being a scaled copy of a design made for petite body types. The different tailoring and styling elevated the looks and showcased classic silhouettes. 

According to the press release , "11 Honoré is a multi-brand ecommerce destination for fashion that fits. 11 Honoré Collection’s on-trend styling and approachable price point ensures that the entire plus community has access to off-the-moment fashion. This is designer Danielle Williams Eke’s second collection with the brand. 11 Honoré and Afterpay’s partnership is built on the notion of accessibility and democratizing fashion. With a mission to unlock access to NYFW for consumers across the country, Afterpay has partnered with 11 Honoré to debut its first-ever "see now, buy now, pay in four" show during NYFW. This is a "first" for the inclusive plus-size designer, who will be giving shoppers across the U.S. a front row seat from the comfort of their own home, with the opportunity to buy items directly from the runway and pay for them over time using their own money." 

“In the last five years 11 Honore has brought the plus size fashion community so far, and there is much work to be done to make fashion more inclusive, and tonight was another great step,” 11 Honoré Founder Patrick Herning said. “I’m grateful to IMG and Afterpay for allowing us the opportunity to once again be front and center at NYFW, leading the conversation for inclusivity on the runway.”  “Working in plus size fashion for many years, customers consistently ask for the same thing: to be included in the global fashion conversation. I’m honored to be a part of pushing the conversation forward. This collection is a celebration of the plus community that I’ve had the privilege to be a part of, but also, a declaration to the fashion industry that this customer is here to stay!” said Eke. 

After the show Eke came out to celebrate a successful night and mingle with guests. She described her collection saying, "Travel has been a huge inspiration to me as a designer. I love seeing style within different cities and cultures and I love applying that to my design process."  The audience applauded with enthusiasm and everyone had a great time enjoying the evening. 

Bicoastal Brands: The Art of Rodarte Comes to NYFW

This year NYFW opening day kicked off with a very special panel featuring Kate and Laura Mulleavy the sisters and founders of Rodarte and moderated by Euphoria star Maude Apatow. The pair came out from California to celebrate the opening of the special exhibit The Art of Rodarte celebrating 10 years of the brand and featuring some of the most artistic creations from their work over the years. The exhibit was open to the public all week with reservations and at the exclusive panel, the sisters shared their excitement of seeing the exhibit come to life for the first time on opening day. I was so excited to be covering this LA brand and to see them headlining at NYFW. They described the process of curating the exhibit saying, "This exhibition is interesting because we go to curate is ourselves. NYC is a second home for us and this time the exhibition was more about what we wanted to choose." 

The sisters shared the story of their first-ever NYFW where they were discovered by Bridget Foley of WWD.  While visiting a friend in New York City they sent designs to several major publications but never heard anything back. Then Bridget Foley took notice of the collection and ended up putting it on the cover of WWD the day before NYFW! After returning to LA they later got a call from Anna Wintour in the most LA place ever--while sitting in traffic on the 405! 

They also shared some of the inspirations for their design aesthetic and what goes into creating a Rodarte piece. They talked about their design process and how they like to stay very connected to the process by sketching everything on paper. They joked saying, "We are very old-fashioned there's not a lot of technology involved." As for inspiration, they told the audience, "We are very inspired by nature and art history." They shared that over the years they have learned it is important to listen to your gut as a designer. The sisters are very traditional when it comes to their fashion shows as well. They described the importance of having a fashion show for their collections saying, "In a runway show we can tell a story. Being at a sow especially if it's a theatrical performance, it can really take you somewhere. We have a desire to tell stories and create narratives." 

The sisters talked about some of the career-changing moments they had while building their brand including designing costumes for Black Swan. 

They described the experience saying, "Black Swan happened so early in our career. In film you're supporting a performance and it is a special powerful experience. Costume designers need to get credit and pay equity because it is a very important part of the story." Working in film was a special experience for the duo. They explained how it had influenced their careers growing up saying, "We didn't grow up seeing fashion. Film and costume design shaped how we saw fashion." 

They also told stories from one of their more recent projects where they were asked to create designs for the animated film...The white dress they designed for the main character took 1.5 years for the animators to finish! But they shared that it had been an incredible fun project and different from what they had done before. "We're dreamers." They concluded. 

The sisters ended the panel with inspiring remarks for aspiring fashion designers saying, "Fashion is so artistic. We encourage anyone that has love for it to pursue it. Spend the time and dedicate energy to the tings that inspire you." 

NYFW Ones to Watch: Bronx and Banco AW22 Show

Australian designer Natalie Banco brought her signature bejeweled designs to NYFW in her breakout show this season. The glamorous event was held at an iconic NYC location at the Bowery Hotel. The star-studded event attracted NYFW's most stylish crowd including fashion TikTok star Caroline Vazzanna, as well as celebs like Taylen Biggs, Patrick Starr, and more. 

The front row was filled with sparkling and colorful outfits that fit the theme of the show "One night in Paris". It was definitely a great place for spotting NYFW statement looks and several guests even wore pieces from the Bronx and Banco line. The event began with cocktails and guests enjoyed sipping on sparkling champagne and mingling before heading into the show. 

The show opened with bright and glittering statement looks that were made for a night out in Paris. 

The collection like many others at NYFW this season showed bright neon shades for winter. My favorite thing about this collection were the accessories by Marzook. The oversized bedazzled purses shaped like lipsticks and hearts as well as other fun shapes echoed the collection's playful and girly vibe. The dress One of my favorite looks was this brightly colored outfit with the oversized bow a daring twist on a  classic Parisian detail. This collection had something for everyone and showcased looks for those who wanted to make a bold statement with the season's trendy cutout style as well as looks for fun loving fashionistas. Some of the pieces definitely reminded me of the Emily in Paris style with a blend of French fashion mixed with street style trends. This refreshing collection dispensed with any attempts to put on false airs of sophistication and embraced the fun and youthful side of fashion. It was a welcome presentation from the seriousness of the past many have felt during the past several years of the pandemic. This collection is made for the girl who wants to embrace spontaneity and maybe even end up spending one night in Paris while still being taken just as seriously all while wearing a bit of sparkle. The upbeat show was a great way to kick off NYFW and I can't wait to see what fun and flirty designs this designer will come up with next.