On the fourth day of NYFW I attended the Fashion Journalism panel held at Spring Studios where several household names in fashion journalism came to speak on some of the historic moments and scandals in the fashion press over the years and the state of the industry today. Panelists Bridget Foley former editor of WWD, Lauren Sherman of Business of Fashion, Dr. Valerie Steele director and chief curator of the museum at FIT and Emil Wilbekin editor and founder of Native Son shared their thoughts on how things have changed during Covid, what TikTok means for fashion journalists, and more. After a whirlwind 2 years of historical events that have turned things upside down for many, journalism may look a bit different but these journalists are committed to continuing to report on all things fashion.
Social media has been a huge part of the fashion industry for years now and like brands, fashion publications have embraced connecting with their audiences on these platforms. However, due to the accelerated digital adoption that happened during Covid lockdowns, more people than ever have joined social media and are embracing even the newest platforms like TikTok at rapid rates. #FashionTok as its known on the platform has become a worldwide community that encompasses every aspect of fashion from amateurs to legendary professionals. The community has also become known as somewhat of a counterculture with many prominent users sharing controversial opinions and going against the traditional norms of the industry. TikTokers such as Caroline Vazzana have been able to gain more success and recognition on the platform than through traditional jobs in fashion media. So how can traditional publications navigate this new space?
Bridget Foley shared her thoughts on the platform saying, "I think people want to hear from their peers which TikTok is great for, but they also want to hear from those traditional authority figures whose opinions are informed by years of industry experience."
The panelists echoed this outlook when discussing social media. Traditional fashion publications can take on the role of experts sharing opinions and verified stories readers know they can trust. While social media platforms like TikTok can serve as a place for people to hear the opinions of their peers and have more open conversations that aren't dominated by corporate fashion's interests. The panelists also discussed the unique phenomenon of TikTok fashion vloggers pointing out that they stand out among social media users as a group that truly cares about what they are talking about.
The panelists also pointed out that the counterculture found in these communities could be a reaction to the consolidation of the fashion industry over the years. Bridget Foley shared that she had witnessed firsthand how the industry had transformed over the years into a corporate-driven environment. This shift has touched all areas of the industry including designers, consumers and of course journalists. One important effect the reorganization of the industry had was how we define what may be perceived as a scandal and how it is covered by the media. Panelists shared some of the major scandals they had covered throughout the years and discussed how those same scandals would be received if they had happened in the present day. Scandals like copyright issues, designers copying one another's work, and giving credit to independent artists have all been hot topics in recent years. The panelists pointed out that in today's fast-fashion economy copycats are not as scandalous as they once were and it can sometimes be impossible to trace back where an idea originated from. However, one of the more positive effects of social media is that it has now become easier for designers and brands to credit independent artists whose work they may have used by shouting them out on social media. In recent years it has become an expectation for big designers to give credit where it is due when using work from small independent artists whether it be in prints, graphics etc.
The topic of fast fashion is also a controversial subject in the industry right now and the panelists addressed the fast-paced fashion calendar that has taken over in recent years. This has led to difficulty for designers to be new and create because we are constantly inundated with newness. With an "on to the next" attitude, it is hard to reflect on things that stand out which is a challenge fashion journalists must contend with when covering new products. The fashion industry is creativity on demand and many designers have compared the feeling to being on a treadmill year round and journalists have also had to change their working style to keep up with the new normal. But, after the world was put on pause for 2 years during the pandemic, the panelists concluded that there is hope for the future. Everyone agreed that there is an urge for change, for something new. And that there is no substitute for in person events.
Another challenge fashion journalists face with the advent of social media is the blind enthusiasm that emerges from the 24/7 nature of these platforms. It can be difficult to publish negative opinions and still get eyes on a piece when you are going against the flow of the social media hype train according to the panelists. Does this make fashion a more forgiving industry than other creative professions? Designers are often not subject to some of the harsh criticisms that other creators may receive on a regular basis. The panelists pointed out that the industry media often does not need to be as critical since the general public is already so critical of fashion. However, journalists also face a challenge from bigger brands who may control the media.
After attending this insightful panel looking back on the evolution of fashion journalism it has definitely changed my opinion on some of these controversies. Let me know what you think in the comments!
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