Friday, March 24, 2017

The History of Zippers, The One Tip You Need to Rock Vintage Denim,andMore from the Talon Zipper Press Preview Party in DTLA



Tonight I headed over to the fashion district in downtown LA for the Press Preview of the Talon International Inc. Zipper exhibit which is opening to the public tomorrow. The exhibit featured vintage pieces from brands that Talon zippers has worked with over the years as well as ads and current collections. LA is a hub for denim designers and today it's very rare to make jeans without zippers so Talon is an important partner for many of the major denim companies based in Los Angeles. Californian's have always had an affinity for denim dating all the way back to the gold rush and Levi Strauss who popularized the western style denim we associate with California and western fashion. The exhibit also featured Talon's latest feat--the longest zipper in the world which they debuted at LAFW this season. The zipper is 3.1 miles in length and fully functioning which is quite a long way from the first zipper invented by Talon in 1893. Guests had a great time playing with it in the fun photo op at the entrance to the event.


The exhibit started with recent Talon creations seen on runways and in magazines such as a Yeezy jacket from NYFW last season and this leather dress embellished with zipper roses.
 
 As I continued through the fun display filled with zipper themed decorations I saw popular looks from the 90s and early 2000s like these Paige denim jeans and this dress with a bodice made entirely from zippers.



 
 
Then I got a blast from the past with the Ascot racing section featuring racing jackets from the 50s and 60s. I loved the vintage 50s ads for men's trousers as well as these fun newspaper and magazine ads for women's suits from the 40s and 50s.

 

Next, I circled around to the Levi's section where I got the chance to speak with Tracey Panek an official historian for Levi Strauss and Co. (this dream job really does exist for all the vintage denim lovers out there) who gave me some interesting history about the evolution of Levi's style as well as the use if zippers in denim. 
The exhibit included looks from the 1920s when according to Tracy Levi's started focusing on aviation style designs inspired by the invention of airplanes. There was even a full children's set complete with a jacket, goggles and cap still in it's original packaging ready for shipment.
 
This western style leather jacket featuring Talon zippers is from the 30s when Levi's started doing western and dude ranch style looks. According to Tracy guests visiting ranches and trying out popular sports of the day such as horse back riding needed high end western styles that they could wear on vacation and in the 40s Levi's introduced their first zipper fly jean hopping to appeal to east coast women who considered the traditional button fly worn by western women to be improper. 
Next she showed me these cool children's pedal pushers from the 50s when denim was still shrink to fit. Levi's even included extra patches on the knees in their kids line. 
In 1967 Levi's introduced their first skinny jean look which you can recognize by the orange tag on the pocket. According to Tracy Levi's is bringing back the signature orange tag to some of their skinny jean styles in 2017. The 505 jean became the go to style for Rock and Roll and lead singers in bands like the Rolling Stones and the Ramones as well as female rock icons like Suzi Quatros popularized the look wearing them on magazine covers and in concerts. In 1978 Levi's introduced the very first tags featuring a lowercase e which has become the signature identifier for vintage Levi's denim as tags before 1978 had all uppercase letters. So next time you want to impress your friends with your knowledge of vintage denim just look for the uppercase e and you'll be able to tell right away if they're truly vintage or not. 
In the 80s Levi's introduced jeans with zippers on the side for even tighter skinny jeans and today they are bringing back their 505 rocker jean with modern updates for the fashionable rock chick in all of us. 
I continued checking out the rest of the vintage ads which dated back to the 1800s and one even featured the very first zip up corset made by Talon a major luxury for women who didn't want to spend time lacing up their corset every day. Another fun vintage fact I learned was that Talon was the exclusive zipper for Louis Vuitton bags for many years and looking for the Talon label can help you identify authentic vintage LV handbags and accessories. 
I had a great time at this exhibit and learned so many interesting facts about all the little details that go into making a garment. And, I'll definitely be applying my new tricks next time I go vintage shopping! Don't forget to check out my post about the best boutiques for vintage finds in Palm Springs here for more ideas!  

Thursday, March 23, 2017

CdM Fashion Careers: Gladys Tamez Milliner to the Stars


Today I interviewed Gladys Tamez at the Ron Robinson store on Melrose Avenue where she was launching her new SS17 collection “Hollywoodland” Gladys Tamez owns her own millinery studio in downtown Los Angeles where she creates hats of every style by hand. She is inspired by the European tradition and craftsmanship but, the designer ultimately has a unique LA spin on her designs adding wild prints and bright colors to her elegant designs. While her designs are unique Gladys herself is exactly what you would expect from a milliner, never still she passionately described her collection to me in her exotic accent all while styling customers and merchandising the hats on display. Gladys is most well known for designing Lady Gaga’s famous pink hat that is now the icon of the singers “Joanne” world tour. Lady Gaga’s favorite color is pink after all and according to Gladys of the 60 some hats she has in her collection the pink one still remains one of her top favorites. The designer told me that she loved designing for Lady Gaga and it was an amazing experience. She has since gained several more high profile clients in both the entertainment and fashion industries. She offers private consulting and custom styling in her downtown studio where she also designs for her collection.
 As the accessories market grows and customers are favoring high quality unique pieces, hats have made a revival in retail stores and become a staple item for fashionistas everywhere. The designer has moved into more commercial designs since her rise to fame and has started to create more retail collections for high end boutiques. The Hollywoodland collection is sold exclusively at Ron Robinson stores as it fits perfectly with the stores’ Los Angeles heritage and was an immediate hit among the store’s customers. Gladys found inspiration for the collection in old Hollywood celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Marlin Brando and each hat in the line bears the name of its inspiration. 

The Grace Kelly hat pictured in the center of the display
The collection is truly an homage to the silver screen and the lookbook even features the son of Salvatore Ferragamo as a model posing in black and white glamour shots. The designer is constantly on the move working on her next big project and growing her successful business, proof that there is always room for new talent, even in an unlikely and traditionally male dominated career such as a milliner.

YoungArts x Swarovski Capsule Collection Debuts at Ron Robinson on Melrose



Today models, actors, and designers gathered at the Fred Segal Café on Melrose Avenue for the launch of the YoungArtsxSwarovski capsule collection at Ron Robinson. The collection is going to be available in international locations and is scheduled to go to international fashion hot spots such as Paris and Milan but has made its debut right here in Los Angeles. The collection will benefit the YoungArts foundation which is a charity organization that provides mentorship and scholarships to the top talent 18 and under in artistic fields such as architecture and music.


Dee Dee Sides the Sr. Development Director for YoungArts also attended the event and I spoke to her about the program. She told me that the Swarovski Atelier collection is sponsored by Swarovski a Young Arts partner and designed by Khirma New York. The collection celebrates the launch of YoungArts fashion platform which will be geared towards mentoring young designers and providing them with exposure to the industry through the organizations partners. The collection fits well with the YoungArts initiative according to DeeDee because it is designed by a young up and coming designer herself and is very artsy to represent the program’s focus on creative industries.

Young Arts is one of the many programs trying to fill the need for mentorship and exposure for youth interested working in creative industries. For many young people in the US, access to technical training or information about careers in artistic fields isn’t part of their education, as there has been a big push for STEM initiatives and college prep programs in the high schools while the arts have been left with little funding. The YoungArts program often find the talent they support through contests where kids can enter their work for a chance to win one of the scholarships and mentoring programs since they are focused on providing resources to the top 1% of talent in the US.

I also interviewed the young designer of the capsule collection which included all types of handbags encrusted with Swarovski crystals in different ways. According to Khirma, the young New York based handbag designer, she was excited to be a part of tshis collection. She relates to the YoungArts initiative because after finishing her undergraduate degree she was on her way to law school when she realized she wanted to be a designer and she believes that ages 15-18 are often some of the most critical years for figuring out what you want to do. She enjoyed working with the Swarovski crystals as a medium because the Swarovski brand is all about texture and that is something her own handbag line also embraces. She said, “the designs are all named after women I have met who inspired me because when you think about what makes a person beautiful it’s all the different textures and layers coming together.” She wanted to represent that in her designs as well and played with different ways to incorporate the crystals such as embroidery and crystal encrusted clasps. The Khirma line is all about being fearless and feminine and making it all happen inspired by Khirma’s own experiences.
The collection was definitely dazzling and the bags could be seen sparkling from across the store drawing interest from customers.




















It was great to see so many people coming out to enjoy lunch on the café patio on the sunny Los Angeles day in support of young people and creative industry. 

Saturday, March 18, 2017

What's Next for Fashion and Feminism?




Image via Instagram @Dior
While feminism has always been an important issue to many in the fashion industry there's no doubt it has recently become "trendy" again in the media as well as for major players in the fashion industry. Fashion houses have been scrambling to recruit popular female celebrity spokeswomen as the new face for their brands. Several major houses also had shake-ups with their creative directors last year and have responded to the recent revival of the feminist movement by highlighting  their appointment's of women to top leadership roles. Most recently Givenchy announced Claire Waight Keller as the next Couturier for the house but they are only the latest in a long line including Oscar de la Renta who announced Laura Kim as co-creative director last fall (which you can read about in my interview with the CEO here), David Yurman who announced Gabriella Forte as CEO, and perhaps most notably Dior whose own Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted her first collection for the house in 2016 entitled "We should all be feminists". 2016 also saw the launch of the "I am poison campaign" from Dior featuring a fiercely dressed Camille Rowe saying "I am not a girl. I am poison." in a commercial that's reminiscent of the 90s punk scene.
Image via Instagram @Dior
The runways of major fashion weeks this past year were also filled with chokers, power suits, menswear inspired silhouettes and traditionally empowering colors such as blacks and reds. Basically, we can confidently say that #girlboss style has officially made it to the big leagues. 
But, could there be another trend brewing under the surface of this feminist fashion revival? 
Image via Instagram @Dior 
Dior's We Should All Be Feminists collection is represented by the simple white t-shirt with the collections title on it in bold black print and Maria Grazia Chiuri's update to the menswear inspired barsuit from Dior but, the collection also included romantic dresses and skirts in whites and blush and her couture collection at Paris Fashion Week was even more feminine. Inspired by Dior's love for impressionism it featured soft colors, delicate tulle layering, and full skirts. 
On the retail front, despite facing a major PR disaster in February Ivanka Trump's brand of feminine businesswear for women has sales up by 33% on Amazon and 29.5% at Bloomingdale's according to this CNN Money article
Fashion designers and consumers are redefining what it means to be a feminist with a more inclusive view of women and femininity and they are finding inspiration from women of all walks of life. While collections from the first fashion month of 2017 have exemplified more of the same dark colors and sharp silhouettes the tide could be changing to a lighter more feminine representation of women's  empowerment. 

CdM Exclusive Interview LAFW Edition: Behind the BADBUTERFLY Collab with Project Runway Star Candice Cuoco and TV Host Vanessa Simmons




On Thursday night Project Runway Season 14 contestant Candice Cuoco and Centric TV host Vanessa Simmons hit the red carpet for the opening Gala of LAFW. The pair showed off their style at the exclusive party held on top of the W Hotel in Hollywood.
The Gala kicked off the Los Angeles Fashion Week Spring 2017 season with live performances and runway previews as well as an Andy Warhol inspired art installation. Everyone turned out in their most stylish looks for the event showing off daring accessories and sparkling outfits.
I had the chance to interview Cuoco and Simmons on the red carpet about their highly-anticipated collaboration BADBUTTERFLY scheduled to hit the runway this Sunday at the finale of LAFW in Hollywood. According to the pair known as #girlbosses in fashion circles the collection all started with a pencil skirt. Both women, who were dressed in sharp and stylish businesswear, are entrepreneurs who have supported women’s empowerment throughout their careers.
“I’ve hosted LAFW for the past few seasons and now, this season I’m presenting a collection with Project Runway finalist Candice Cuoco.” Vanessa, who also hosts the business competition show #queenboss on CentricTV told me.
“Vanessa introduced me to LAFW because I’m new to LA so my girl has been showing me all around.” Added Candice excitedly.
“I asked her to design me a pencil skirt and I just loved the way she made it.” Explained Vanessa.
“And that was the beginning of the BADBUTTERFLY collection.” They both said in unison.
“It’s a lifestyle collection for the woman who is looking to conquer anywhere in her life.” Vanessa told me.
“We were really inspired by women’s stories.” Said Candice who’s Instagram bio reads “#WomenRunThisHouse”
And their vision for BADBUTTERFLY doesn’t just apply to the clothes either, the model casting call for Sunday’s runway show read “Where my girls at? Tattoos, tall, short, curvy, BRING ‘EM OUT!!” These two are on a mission to make their show stylish and feminist. They are definitely catching the eye of the LA fashion industry with their collaboration. 

LAFW S17 Opening Gala at the W Hotel Hollywood



"One word, Amazing. Love my team, love the city, and love LAFW." is how Executive Director of LAFW Arthur Chipman described their opening gala held at the rooftop pool and bar of the W Hotel overlooking Hollywood boulevard on Thursday night.

The event was full of fashion industry influencers as well as some of the designers scheduled to show during the LAFW S17 shows this weekend.

I got the chance to interview Candice Cuoco and Vanessa Simmons who are showing their BADBUTTERFLY collection this Sunday at the finale of LA fashion week. Check out my article on the interview here.
It also included art installations from their partner Sur le Mur Gallery. The art was inspired by Andy Warhol and photos of the artist as well as these amazing dresses by Soniaete Couture featuring portraits of Warhol decorated the room.



There was also a live portrait installation where guests could get their portrait done in Charcoal by artist Robert Vargas. The theme went well with the amazing rose decorations throughout the room giving the whole night an avant garde garden party feel. Guests turned out in their most fashionable outfits and many opted for a metallic look. Everyone (including moi) enjoyed the multiple photo ops including this fun sparkly backdrop.

The gala also showed feature presentations from a few designers and a live performance by the Anaheim Ballet. It was a great way to kickoff the season and celebrate the LA fashion industry in the heart of Hollywood.

Thursday, March 9, 2017

Courtney Allegra LA Fashion Week Party on Melrose






On Thursday night at the Courtney Allegra store on Melrose avenue I caught up with the young designer as she celebrated her upcoming LA fashion week runway show. The event was sponsored by Obvious Magazine and the Editor in Chief as well as several Courtney Allegra models and customers attended. Courtney Allegra showed up wearing a cute white dress and greeted guests as they arrived at the colorful store. Rainbow swimsuits decorated the walls as the store prepared for the spring and summer swim season. When I last spoke with Courtney at the opening of her store this past fall she was looking forward to the new experience of the Melrose store (you can read my full interview with her here). The young designer has been working hard at managing her store while also being enrolled in school at UC Santa Barbara. When I asked her how she handles such a crazy schedule she told me that normally she drives down to LA to visit the store and attend events on the weekends and, stays in Santa Barbara for classes during the week. I asked her how things had been going since the launch and according to Courtney opening her swimwear store in the fall was a risk but, everything has been going really well and people have still been coming in thanks to the warm California weather. Now they are preparing for an even busier summer season but, Courtney isn't worried about being away saying, "I'm so lucky I have a great team here."

Friday, March 3, 2017

A Lifetime of Experience in Retail: CdM Exclusive Interview with the President of Ron Robinson Santa Monica


Merchandising! Merchandising! Merchandising!

On Thursday February, 9 I had the opportunity to head over to the Ron Robinson flagship store at the opening for this month's art installation titled "Love and Other things" 
 I was greeted by a group of friendly faces as I walked into the store and met Ron Robinson who is the President of Fred Segal on Melrose and two of his own stores: the flagship just off 3rd street promenade and another location on Melrose. He founded his own two stores after working for the famous L.A. retailer Fred Segal on Melrose and eventually taking over the store. The Santa Monica store doesn't look very big from the outside with one small window display facing the street but, after I got inside I realized it was much bigger than it seems! 
Robinson gave me a tour of the store himself after I told him I had never been before and, started off by excitedly telling me about the store's gallery initiative to feature different original art installations that represent the store's current theme. This month's was all about Valentine's Day of course and the artists were there as well to describe their art. 
Robinson also invites some select designers and brands to the store for these events so guests can get to know the new products that are being featured in the store. He started off by showing me their home section which had everything from decorative trinkets to full glassware sets. 

These desk plates were some of my favorites! 
Then we headed over to his beauty section where he introduced me to the designer for La Lumen which, she told me, means light in Latin. It is a new jewelry brand that focuses on magnetic jewelry and of course had some designs inspired by love for the holiday.
 He also showed me their custom fragrance collection. My favorite was this scent called Pearl 
which he excitedly told me that he had created himself. He described the perfume saying it was meant to represent sitting on the patio somewhere in Los Angeles relaxing and watching the sunset wearing a black t-shirt and a strand of pearls. The perfume, and the store definitely captured the old Hollywood feel he described. 
We then moved on to the Women's wear section where he showed me a new line of hats they had just introduced designed by the same woman who created Lady Gaga's signature pink hat. 
Collections like these with unique stories somehow tied to Los Angeles dotted the store giving the customer endless opportunities for discovery. 
Another brand that was featured in the store was Sugar t-shirts. They were launching their capsule collection exclusively for Ron Robinson which was also created around the Valentine's Day theme.You can read more about the brand in my article here.
We also passed by the accessories section which Robinson proudly told me was the only brick and mortar location to carry the new Hadid eyewear line designed by the Hadid sisters which was a big hit among guests at the party. 




Finally, we made it to the kids section which is separated from the store by a large space which Robinson plans to fill with a cafe called “Mind. Body. Fork.” 

The kids section is a fun bright space that is filled with a range of designers from major brands such as Stella McCartney to smaller brands that Robinson has found himself. As we ended our tour the store had begun to fill up and Robinson was busy greeting guests and friends. 
I also got the chance to talk with one of the sales reps in the store who told me that Robinson took a lot of care and time in choosing the products he showcased in the store and how to best display them. Merchandising is very important to this store and the carefully curated collections provide a seamless experience for the customer. 
The art gallery openings are not the only events the store holds either. They also hold free fitness classes hosted by different trainers from the LA area and I'm sure their new cafe will provide another venue for interesting community events. 
While the store is small and offers a limited selection of high priced products in each section it is still very popular and draws customers from all over the Los Angeles area as well as visitors from around the world. The local merchandising and clear theme of the store are appealing to shoppers and especially young customers because, while it may not provide the most budget friendly options it is always on trend and in tune with the local atmosphere. One reason for this could be that while younger customers have watched malls empty out in their neighborhoods they have become more and more interested in local boutiques that can provide a more focused experience for their tastes. Supporting local businesses has become a bigger trend recently and young customers especially enjoy finding fun and familiar places to hang out. I can't wait to see what is next from the fun boutique!