New Designers at NYFW To Watch This Season

While NYFW has been back from Covid for two official seasons now this may be the first season many people feel is a true New York Fashion Week experience. CFDA CEO Steven Kolb opened fashion week on Thursday night at Gracie Mansion and according to an article on FashionNetwork.com he stated, “This season is about power and action. Of course the pandemic meant a gradual return but this is finally full on fashion week.”

But for many in the industry fashion week is full of new faces and new challenges this season and rather than feeling a familiar return there is a new energy in the air. In an exclusive interview industry veteran Bridget Foley who previously worked as Executive Editor of WWD for over a decade stated, “New York fashion week has always been about finding new designers and new talent but I think what we’re seeing this season is a revalidation.” Industry experts have noted that this season in many cases reflects a selection of new designers and up and coming talent that has not been offered in past years. Some notable up and coming brands to watch include Deity New York, Fe Noel, Puppets and Puppets, Wiederhoeft and more. Foley noted that while it can be very difficult for new designers to pull together a show we are seeing a revalidation on the promise of what new talent can bring to the industry.

Foley also said,“The fashion industry has a sense of community which is very important. And we are seeing many new faces in the audience with influencers, social media, etc. which is great. The fashion industry is one of the most kinetic industries in the world and has continued to evolve.” Among those new faces includes New York State Governor Kathy Hochul and Mayor Adams of NYC who have both been spotted attending events this season and last season. This in itself speaks to the revalidation of the fashion show as well as this specific fashion week. Foley said, “I think that we’ve realized we can’t take it for granted. Fashion is an enormous industry that accounts for many jobs and millions of dollars. In NYC it’s very diverse and we’re seeing more points of view. It’s very important for the people in power to recognize that.” She went on to say that she has noticed a renewed focus on the importance of supporting new talent with the potential to create powerful and successful businesses and give opportunities to new designers and brands.

While new faces are one side of the coin the lack of some familiar faces from the scene should also be noted. Some brands who were fixtures on the NYFW calendar for years such as Ralph Lauren (who instead chose to show in LA this October) are not showing this season.

When discussing the changing dynamics of this week’s lineup Foley said, “We’re seeing a clarification of what the fashion show means.” She noted that many brands have shown an increased selectivity when choosing to participate in fashion week or not saying, “Even the most low key show is very very expensive to put on. Some brands have realized the money could be better spent on other things.”

She added, “I love fashion shows. But it’s true that sometimes it’s not the best way to communicate the aesthetic for that brand or collection.” With consumers tightening their belts and many brands still rebounding from Covid losses budgets have become a deciding factor in many brands decision to put on a live show. Foley noted, “Some brands realize they just can’t afford it.” Covid has forced a collective step back and offered all of us the chance to evaluate what is truly important in our lives and what we want to spend our energy on and this is true for the fashion industry as well.

Of course many fan favorites are still showing this season. Foley pointed out that for many designers fashion week creates a creative rhythm that is hard to replace. She said. “Many designers design for the show and that’s something that plays into it.”

However, if bigger brands are generally cutting back on fashion show spending, how can new brands with even tighter budgets afford to participate?

Foley said, “It’s so hard for young designers to get established. Staging a fashion show is enormously expensive.” She added that new designers also must consider if they will stand out against major brands and get noticed or if they will be lost in the chaos of fashion week news. In order to put on a successful show designers must pull together sponsors for hair and makeup, find venues, and hire models and support staff.

According to designer Renee Bishop of the up and coming brand Deity New York putting together this season’s show was According to designer Renee Bishop of the up and coming brand Deity New York putting together this season’s show was not an easy road but she was ultimately able to create the event she had envisioned.  She recounted the experience of putting together her first full fledged runway show in contrast with last season’s presentation format in which the clothes were displayed on mannequins saying, “With pressure comes diamonds, and that’s how I feel about putting together my second runway collection, after presenting last season in a presentation format.  My team and I started back in June, right after we presented the Deity resort collection.  Spring / Summer looks great…filled with texture and color; it’s this mix of the natural and manufactured. I can’t wait for it to be in the runway! New York is so wonderful to present in for all its diversity. New York Fashion Week is for everyone and that makes it all the more special.

Despite the challenges the industry has faced navigating the post covid fashion week landscape many are still excited for the return to in person events. Foley said, “It’s interesting that for all of the alternatives no group of options has emerged as a really sound alternative to fashion week.” For Foley there is no other moment like a fashion show. She feels that whether it is in person or on a screen it is a truly powerful experience for brands and audience alike to feel the magic of a live fashion show and presenting a new collection for the first time. She said she feels it can often be the strongest way to communicate a collection’s aesthetic.

One of the ways fashion week has been adapting to these new norms is by creating more involved partnerships with sponsors. One example is UPS who has partnered with fashion week the past two seasons by highlighting small designers from minority communities. Designers and UPS have worked together to create new ways of partnering up. Angelo Baque streetwear designer and founder of Awake New York said that his vision is to create new norms for corporate partners and ensure that giving back to the community is the first priority. 

According to UPS brand representative Carlos Cuerto, "UPS is ecstatic about the opportunity to support New York Fashion Week. We are developing a very strong partnership and committed to the development of fashion designers and the fashion industry as a whole. UPS is a catalyst of their growth as well because once they scale and you know designers, launch their brands and commercialize their products, UPS wants to serve as a partner when they ship it, you know, and they conquer new markets domestically and internationally. UPS wants to be part of that growth. We are committed to the support of underrepresented minorities and we know that fashion serves as an avenue to access a lot of diversity like latinx, women, also African American owned businesses so we want to make sure that we serve as a catalyst for their growth." 

It will be interesting to see how these partnerships and runway shows evolve as fashion designers navigate this new landscape and more exciting developments continue to grow! 

Meet LA Blogger Babe Lainey of Iamfashionlaine

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"Even my dog thinks she's an influencer" -Lainey, blogger at Iamfashionlaine

On Saturday at the Simply conference in LA I got to meet so many cool people from the fashion and beauty industry. Check out my interview with blogger and influencer Lainey of pop art fashion blog Iamfashionlaine. She spoke on a panel about being a micro-influencer and shared some great tips for bloggers just starting out. Before going on to her panel I got an exclusive interview with her where we talked about all things fashion and the latest trends in the industry as well as her top tips for micro-influencers.
She said, "Our panel is about the power of micro-influencers so I think the biggest tip is about being authentic to who you are because being your self is the biggest most special thing you can have in a world where everyone is an influencer, my dog thinks she's an influencer so its like what makes you different and I think its really you. That's what I figured out throughout the past 5-6 years about being a blogger."
This was a theme shared throughout the conference and something that really speaks to how the influecner space has evolved over the past couple of years.
Lainey told me about growing her blog and how her own personal style has changed since she started it. She is focused on a colorful style and her insta feed is filled with neon and rainbow outfits.

She told me about her look for the day saying, "Right now I'm wearing a crop top and a matching set and I love two pieces I love fun colorful stuff even if it's winter and I really do wear crop tops a lot so I feel like I always go back to that."

Lainey was taking advantage of all the great panels and expert opinions at the conference just like everyone else and she told me about the highlights she'd seen so far saying, "I've just been hopping around to the different panels and seeing a lot of people that I know and I was like Oh my God, Lo from the Hills is here! So I'm like freaking out. But just seeing the different people and hearing what they all have to say because everyone has something cool to say here!"

We also talked about her latest venture called Fashionablylatte a fashion and popculture Youtube show she created with her partner Diana Espir. She's been working on trying new content ideas with the show and was so excited when she found out I watched it. She even featured me on her insta story during the event! Check out her blog to see more of her fun styles here!

CdM Fashion Careers: Cassandra Volpe and the Future of Social Media Marketing for Fashion

Cassandra Volpe – Account Director at Adaptly

What is your job title and what does a typical day in the life look like?

Account Director (Social Media) at Adaptly

A typical day includes meetings with my internal team and clients to discuss campaign performance and future strategy, putting together media plans and recommendations, working to optimize campaigns in real time, and being sure to take time to keep up with the latest in the industry.

Do you have any advice for someone hoping to get into this field?

Look to get in the door with an agency or API partner who works across multiple social platforms and verticals. Ultimately, this will set you up for several different paths as you discover more about what it is that draws you to this kind of work.
Once you’ve landed a position be a self-starter and a go-getter. If you don’t know the answer to something, research it. Participate in webinars, read articles and blogs written by those in the field, keep up with industry news etc. This will put you a step ahead in this fast changing industry.

What is the biggest difference you’ve noticed between traditional fashion and retail marketing and social media marketing for this industry?

In traditional media, there is often a lot of emphasis put on using elevated and artistic creative. Using print as an example, these often have an editorial vibe and blend in well with the pages of Vogue or Elle magazines.
When we think about how users interact with social media, the behavior is very different. Users are consuming media quickly, on mobile devices, anywhere they are. Creative in these environments need to stand out and very clearly communicate what they are showing in order to have a lasting impact on the user.
Where in print, black and white imagery may have given a sophisticated vibe, users will likely scroll right by that on a news feed filled with color. In television, you may have the users undivided attention for 45 seconds or more but on Social you have 5 seconds to grab someones attention and can only expect to keep it for 15 seconds – so it is important to grab their attention with movement and color and to say what needs to be said quickly and playfully.

How does an awareness campaign differ from a campaign directed at purchasing a specific item online?

Awareness campaigns aim to generate brand buzz and drive your brands narrative. These campaigns aim to show what you have to offer and help introduce your brand or aid in staying top of mind with your audience. Brand marketing may influence sales, but it does not necessarily increase them.
An ad with an objective of selling a specific item would be considered Direct Response. With Direct response your one goal is to drive sales.

Do you ever create campaigns to drive in store traffic?

Driving in-store traffic is a huge focus for many retailers as more and more shopping moves online. Fortunately, there is still a tremendous benefit to the in-store experience of communicating with a real
person who knows the brand as well as seeing and feeling a product in person. In order to effectively drive foot traffic, this in-store experience should be a focus of your advertisements.

Does your messaging differ by social platform? 

The message does and should differ by social platform. Again, think of how the social platform is used and how you can provide value in that context. On Pinterest, users love to see “how-to’s” so showing how to wear an item multiple ways works well. On Instagram, you may use visually beautiful content in relatable outdoor settings.

What do you see for the future of social media marketing in the fashion industry and specifically branded content?

I see things getting a lot more complex with the Virtual Reality on the near horizon. One day, users will be able to virtually hold or try on an item before they order online.

What is the one piece of advice you give to all your clients?

Always be testing! In an ever changing market, what works today might fail tomorrow. In order to succeed you must be dynamic and willing to divert from the original strategy.

CdM Exclusive: Toni Ko founder of NYX and Perverse sunglasses

Photo via Instagram @tonikoko

"You don’t have to have just one pair of sunglasses you could have two, three, four, five, six options. You could try a cat-eye, you could have an aviator. You could have fun and wear pink sunglasses or yellow sunglasses or purple ones.”- Toni Ko Founder of Perverse Sunglasses

Toni Ko, founder of NYX make-up and now Perverse sunglasses, is an expert in fashion entrepreneurism and, on Saturday she attended the Simply event in LA to share some of her tips and insider knowledge on the panel titled “Starting a business from the ground up”. Her company, Perverse sunglasses exhibited at the event as well and, also recently opened their 5^th store in the Santa Anita Westfield Mall. I spoke to Toni about her inspiration for founding NYX and how it has helped her in developing her latest project Perverse.

Her love of make-up is what first led to her idea for NYX and she started by telling me about the turning point that finally pushed her to start the company saying, “I was 26 in 1999 and I was that girl on a budget and I loved the product that was in department stores but I couldn’t afford it. So, I used to go to drug stores to find my products but, back in 1999 the products were really poor quality in drug stores so my family had been in the beauty business for a while and I knew a couple of the suppliers. And one day, I just said I’m going to start my own cosmetics line that doesn’t break your wallet but still has amazing quality.”

According to Toni, as the industry changed she noticed her target customer had changed as well and the quality and variety of products that were available at lower price points had increased dramatically by the time she sold the company in 2014.

She found her next project in a similar style saying, “It’s almost like the same business concept as my previous industry cosmetics, just in a different industry.”

After noticing a missing element in the Sunglass industry, she founded Perverse which she affectionately calls her “newest baby” telling me, “I think it is an industry that is heavily dominated by just a few companies and I think there could be more variety of companies in the business that could deliver more variety of styles at a budget price point.”

And variety is one of her main focuses for the designs for Perverse. She told me, “I love colors, I love the whole matchy-matchy theme where you can match your sunglasses to your lipstick color. You could wear like a bright yellow dress—and this happened because I was looking for yellow sunglasses. I really wanted to find a yellow sunglass that fit my face and I couldn’t find any because every sunglass you see out there is just black brown, black brown. So, I’m all about sunglasses with color.”

The founder, who like many is tired of the same safe and boring styles available now, is all about taking risks and she wants to bring that to her customers as well giving them more options to try out without committing tons of money to one trend. 

She told me, “I want to be the sunglass business for the fashion accessories category. I want fast turnover, fast fashion sunglasses, taking sunglasses and really making it a fashion accessory category. You don’t have to have just one pair of sunglasses you could have two three four five six options. You could try a cat-eye, you could have an aviator. You could have fun and wear pink sunglasses or yellow sunglasses or purple ones.”

And on Saturday, the Perverse booth was full of fun and colorful styles. The Perverse outlook on eyewear will bring a new perspective to the industry and the fun bold styles already have customers getting in on the good times. 

CdM Exclusive: Simply CEO Sarah Boyd launches Simply LA in style

“It’s really just one handshake or one introduction that you need to really change your career.” -Sarah Boyd Simply founder and CEO

Photo via Instagram @sarahpboyd

Simply common sense is the best way to describe Saturday’s fashion and beauty conference held on the rooftop of the Grove shopping center in Beverly Hills. The event, powered by Nylon Magazine was full of informative panels, innovative brands and fun networking opportunities, exactly how Sarah Boyd, the Simply founder and CEO, pictured it 5 years ago when she first came up with the idea.

“I was doing PR at the time and I really saw a need for in person connection and to do it in a kind environment.” She told me of her inspiration for the company.

The event was filled with experts and digital influencers from the fashion and beauty industries as well as editors and businesswomen from traditional media such as Gabrielle Korn Nylon editor in Chief, actress Ashley Greene, blogger Becca Tilley and more. Fashion lovers and young stylish consumers were invited to experience the brands that were showcasing their products and get the latest updates on the new and exciting companies that are making waves in the industry including popular names like Planet Blue, BeGalmmed, New Beauty Magazine, BlessBox, Shoedazzle, and more. For the VIP attendees exclusive access to panels with celebrities, digital influencers, and successful entrepreneurs was the highlight of the event. Topics like the business of blogging, starting a brand, and how to kill it on social media were just a few of the insider tips that were discussed.

She told me about her idea saying, “It’s really just one handshake or one introduction that you need to really change your career because you have that one person who believes in you. So, I wanted to make that happen here in person.”

Organizing the scattered and confusing landscape of social media influencers and publishers within the fashion and beauty industries is a challenge that few people have wanted to take on, and it is often regarded as a separate business altogether.

“A lot of this stuff, I never thought it would ever happen.” She continued.

However, providing a conference for consumers who are looking to experience their favorite companies and, industry leaders in social media and digital content, to connect with up and coming digital and traditional brands (and plenty of Instagram worthy photo-ops) was the perfect way to highlight all the things they have in common.

Not one to give up, Sarah told me about getting her ideas from her vision board to a real-life conference at The Grove saying, “You just gotta hustle and persevere and never take no for an answer and it can happen.”

“I network a lot. I always tell everybody at my events you have to network.” She added.

As for her process of finding the right brands to work with at the Simply conferences she said, “It’s people that have a big heart and are kind and share their knowledge. Not a lot of people do that in the industry so I personally handpick a lot of them…I think it’s just through meeting people and if I really feel like they can bring something to our audience that’s how I choose them.”

And she still has more she’s looking to accomplish for the future of Simply.

 “I see doing more cities, more countries. Potentially retreats in the future. Just building the community.” She told me. For now, she’s just been celebrating the success of her LA conference saying, “It’s incredible…A pinch me moment.” 

Why Doesn't Sustainable Fashion Sell?

A post shared by SierraClair (@cerisesdumatin) on Mar 17, 2015 at 11:19am PDT

The fashion industry is no stranger to environmental issues. In fact several have even called the textile industry one of the biggest polluters in the world. Fast Fashion retailers and trends have contributed to the industry's environmental footprint in recent years. Americans are estimated to throw away around 12.8 million tons of clothes per year according to an article from the Yale school of Forestry and Environmental studies. That amounts to approximately 70-80 pounds per person which, according to some reports, is double what an American would have thrown away two decades ago. Many Americans don't realize that their donated clothes often end up in landfills thereby contributing to added waste.  When donated are sent overseas, it can negatively impact the local economy.  Industry standards for quality and wearability have also declined across the board from fast fashion to luxury brands.

The textile industries in places like China and India who produce the majority of the western world's textiles also contribute to waste as regulations are lax leading to the pollution of rivers and low cost dyeing processes overtax the water supply in these regions. Places like the FIDM institute of textile sciences in Los Angeles are constantly researching new and more environmentally friendly processes for producing textiles. Several startups around the US have already begun processes for breaking down recycled textiles to create even stronger and better materials such as Seattle based Evernu. In some cases companies are even growing their own textiles using chemical processes and organic materials like grapes. Designers have also been experimenting with bioprinting a process that uses bacteria to create pigments that are less damaging to the environment. 

Retail giants like Target and Macy's have also contributed to the decline in industry standards by enforcing increasingly strict return policies on last call discount items online and in store that encourage consumers to throw away clothes that they don't like or that don't fit rather than return them. Another problem that contributes to the throw away clothing culture is the decline of tailoring services and the one-size-fits-all retail mindset. Many stores that used to offer tailoring in store with the purchase of items like a dress or a suit no longer offer these services and local tailoring shops are few and far between. The ones that do exist are inundated with orders during busy times like prom season and can barely keep up with the demand because most dresses and suits still need some work after they have been purchased. Since many younger consumers don't have the skills to mend clothes that tear or replace lost buttons and tailoring isn't readily available their clothes end up in the trash even if they are still wearable. 

Several companies including fast fashion giant H&M have introduced recycling programs that give consumers discounts for donating old clothes, but so far the programs have only returned a fraction of the millions of clothes sold by these retailers every year. Consumer behavior still seemingly favors the fast fashion mindset of buying new clothes all the time rather than just a few times a year, making it hard for traditional brands to compete. However trends have also recently shown an increasing interest in more quality pieces and vintage or upcycled finds. Rather than trying to convince consumers to recycle their old clothes, brands that stand behind their products while still delivering stylish pieces are attracting attention from consumers tired of keeping up with the ever expanding retail calendar. 

Several American companies including Levi Strauss and Co., New Balance, and Misfit have also been working to create more sustainable processes for their products as well as use recycled or organic materials in their designs. Misfit, a company that creates fitness trackers and other wearable tech, partnered with Swarovski in 2015 to create an affordable solar powered activity tracker that eliminated the need for harmful lithium batteries. As fashion and technology continue to overlap, companies like Misfit are thinking about ways to reduce e-waste while still making stylish products. Creating and selling sustainable fashion seems like a good idea for brands looking to improve their image and increase sales, however often times the investment doesn't pay off as many consumers are still reluctant to purchase items marked "eco-friendly" or "made using recycled materials." 

The problem isn't that consumers don't want to purchase eco-friendly products though, but rather they fear a decreased quality or lifespan for the pieces as environmentally friendly products have a bad reputation of wearing out quickly. Consumers who are already tired of clothes that wear out after one or two washes are reluctant to purchase items that look more like a PR stunt than a product that will hold up to a brand's reputation. Unfortunately style and sustainability are still two competing concepts when it comes to the fashion industry and many brands that have a reputation for being eco-friendly also have a reputation for being boring and ill fitting. Brands that rely on environmentally conscious products as their only selling point lose the ability to appeal to a mainstream audience because they look more like a passing trend than a company that will make it in a competitive industry. Price is also a barrier to sustainable products and consumers are reluctant to pay more for a product that isn't personalized or stylish and doesn't look like it will last even if it is environmentally friendly. Sometimes the way sustainable brands are portrayed in the media also contributes to their lack of success and talking about eco-friendly fashion as the new norm rather than an exciting fad that could quickly go out of style can contribute to more mainstream popularity for green fashion.
Frances Kozen, Associate Director Cornell Institute Fashion & Fiber told the New York Times that her overall mantra was to "buy less and wear more (or longer)" in an interview last month. Ultimately the best way brands can work to reduce their environmental impact and help the fashion industry to become more sustainable is by conducting thorough research when sourcing materials and creating quality products that are meant to last. Consumers are looking for brands they can trust and standing behind a product will not only help to reduce waste but also create customer loyalty for struggling companies. To learn more about the future of sustainable fashion read my interview with Kristine Upesleja the Textiles and Materials manager at FIDM in Los Angeles and check out her blog here .

The History of Zippers, The One Tip You Need to Rock Vintage Denim,andMore from the Talon Zipper Press Preview Party in DTLA

Tonight I headed over to the fashion district in downtown LA for the Press Preview of the Talon International Inc. Zipper exhibit which is opening to the public tomorrow. The exhibit featured vintage pieces from brands that Talon zippers has worked with over the years as well as ads and current collections. LA is a hub for denim designers and today it's very rare to make jeans without zippers so Talon is an important partner for many of the major denim companies based in Los Angeles. Californian's have always had an affinity for denim dating all the way back to the gold rush and Levi Strauss who popularized the western style denim we associate with California and western fashion. The exhibit also featured Talon's latest feat--the longest zipper in the world which they debuted at LAFW this season. The zipper is 3.1 miles in length and fully functioning which is quite a long way from the first zipper invented by Talon in 1893. Guests had a great time playing with it in the fun photo op at the entrance to the event.

"I came, I saw, I sparkled" #gold #blonde #lafashiondistrict #cool #fblogger #fun #sparkley #glitter #cerisesdumatin #you #can #never have too much #glitter

A post shared by SierraClair (@cerisesdumatin) on Mar 24, 2017 at 3:31am PDT

The exhibit started with recent Talon creations seen on runways and in magazines such as a Yeezy jacket from NYFW last season and this leather dress embellished with zipper roses.
 
 As I continued through the fun display filled with zipper themed decorations I saw popular looks from the 90s and early 2000s like these Paige denim jeans and this dress with a bodice made entirely from zippers.

 

 
Then I got a blast from the past with the Ascot racing section featuring racing jackets from the 50s and 60s. I loved the vintage 50s ads for men's trousers as well as these fun newspaper and magazine ads for women's suits from the 40s and 50s.

 

Next, I circled around to the Levi's section where I got the chance to speak with Tracey Panek an official historian for Levi Strauss and Co. (this dream job really does exist for all the vintage denim lovers out there) who gave me some interesting history about the evolution of Levi's style as well as the use if zippers in denim. 

The exhibit included looks from the 1920s when according to Tracy Levi's started focusing on aviation style designs inspired by the invention of airplanes. There was even a full children's set complete with a jacket, goggles and cap still in it's original packaging ready for shipment.
 

This western style leather jacket featuring Talon zippers is from the 30s when Levi's started doing western and dude ranch style looks. According to Tracy guests visiting ranches and trying out popular sports of the day such as horse back riding needed high end western styles that they could wear on vacation and in the 40s Levi's introduced their first zipper fly jean hopping to appeal to east coast women who considered the traditional button fly worn by western women to be improper. 

Next she showed me these cool children's pedal pushers from the 50s when denim was still shrink to fit. Levi's even included extra patches on the knees in their kids line. 

In 1967 Levi's introduced their first skinny jean look which you can recognize by the orange tag on the pocket. According to Tracy Levi's is bringing back the signature orange tag to some of their skinny jean styles in 2017. The 505 jean became the go to style for Rock and Roll and lead singers in bands like the Rolling Stones and the Ramones as well as female rock icons like Suzi Quatros popularized the look wearing them on magazine covers and in concerts. In 1978 Levi's introduced the very first tags featuring a lowercase e which has become the signature identifier for vintage Levi's denim as tags before 1978 had all uppercase letters. So next time you want to impress your friends with your knowledge of vintage denim just look for the uppercase e and you'll be able to tell right away if they're truly vintage or not. 

In the 80s Levi's introduced jeans with zippers on the side for even tighter skinny jeans and today they are bringing back their 505 rocker jean with modern updates for the fashionable rock chick in all of us. 

I continued checking out the rest of the vintage ads which dated back to the 1800s and one even featured the very first zip up corset made by Talon a major luxury for women who didn't want to spend time lacing up their corset every day. Another fun vintage fact I learned was that Talon was the exclusive zipper for Louis Vuitton bags for many years and looking for the Talon label can help you identify authentic vintage LV handbags and accessories. 

I had a great time at this exhibit and learned so many interesting facts about all the little details that go into making a garment. And, I'll definitely be applying my new tricks next time I go vintage shopping! Don't forget to check out my post about the best boutiques for vintage finds in Palm Springs here for more ideas!  

CdM Fashion Careers: Gladys Tamez Milliner to the Stars

@gladys_tamez_millinery talking about her latest collection inspired by #oldhollywoodglamour and her experience designing the infamous pink hat for @ladygaga #hats #milliner #losangeles #hollywood #millinertothestars #ladygaga #pinkhat #ladygagatour #ladygagastyle #ronrobinson #melroseave #melrose #shopping #fblogger #california #fashionblogger #celebritystyle #fashion #summer #fashiondesigner #cool #cerisesdumatin #classic #laurenbacall #goldenera #classicstyle #hollywoodland

A post shared by SierraClair (@cerisesdumatin) on Mar 23, 2017 at 5:47pm PDT

Today I interviewed Gladys Tamez at the Ron Robinson store on Melrose Avenue where she was launching her new SS17 collection “Hollywoodland” Gladys Tamez owns her own millinery studio in downtown Los Angeles where she creates hats of every style by hand. She is inspired by the European tradition and craftsmanship but, the designer ultimately has a unique LA spin on her designs adding wild prints and bright colors to her elegant designs. While her designs are unique Gladys herself is exactly what you would expect from a milliner, never still she passionately described her collection to me in her exotic accent all while styling customers and merchandising the hats on display. Gladys is most well known for designing Lady Gaga’s famous pink hat that is now the icon of the singers “Joanne” world tour. Lady Gaga’s favorite color is pink after all and according to Gladys of the 60 some hats she has in her collection the pink one still remains one of her top favorites. The designer told me that she loved designing for Lady Gaga and it was an amazing experience. She has since gained several more high profile clients in both the entertainment and fashion industries. She offers private consulting and custom styling in her downtown studio where she also designs for her collection.

 As the accessories market grows and customers are favoring high quality unique pieces, hats have made a revival in retail stores and become a staple item for fashionistas everywhere. The designer has moved into more commercial designs since her rise to fame and has started to create more retail collections for high end boutiques. The Hollywoodland collection is sold exclusively at Ron Robinson stores as it fits perfectly with the stores’ Los Angeles heritage and was an immediate hit among the store’s customers. Gladys found inspiration for the collection in old Hollywood celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Marlin Brando and each hat in the line bears the name of its inspiration. 

The Grace Kelly hat pictured in the center of the display

The collection is truly an homage to the silver screen and the lookbook even features the son of Salvatore Ferragamo as a model posing in black and white glamour shots. The designer is constantly on the move working on her next big project and growing her successful business, proof that there is always room for new talent, even in an unlikely and traditionally male dominated career such as a milliner.

YoungArts x Swarovski Capsule Collection Debuts at Ron Robinson on Melrose

Today models, actors, and designers gathered at the Fred Segal Café on Melrose Avenue for the launch of the YoungArtsxSwarovski capsule collection at Ron Robinson. The collection is going to be available in international locations and is scheduled to go to international fashion hot spots such as Paris and Milan but has made its debut right here in Los Angeles. The collection will benefit the YoungArts foundation which is a charity organization that provides mentorship and scholarships to the top talent 18 and under in artistic fields such as architecture and music.

Dee Dee Sides the Sr. Development Director for YoungArts also attended the event and I spoke to her about the program. She told me that the Swarovski Atelier collection is sponsored by Swarovski a Young Arts partner and designed by Khirma New York. The collection celebrates the launch of YoungArts fashion platform which will be geared towards mentoring young designers and providing them with exposure to the industry through the organizations partners. The collection fits well with the YoungArts initiative according to DeeDee because it is designed by a young up and coming designer herself and is very artsy to represent the program’s focus on creative industries.

Young Arts is one of the many programs trying to fill the need for mentorship and exposure for youth interested working in creative industries. For many young people in the US, access to technical training or information about careers in artistic fields isn’t part of their education, as there has been a big push for STEM initiatives and college prep programs in the high schools while the arts have been left with little funding. The YoungArts program often find the talent they support through contests where kids can enter their work for a chance to win one of the scholarships and mentoring programs since they are focused on providing resources to the top 1% of talent in the US.

I also interviewed the young designer of the capsule collection which included all types of handbags encrusted with Swarovski crystals in different ways. According to Khirma, the young New York based handbag designer, she was excited to be a part of tshis collection. She relates to the YoungArts initiative because after finishing her undergraduate degree she was on her way to law school when she realized she wanted to be a designer and she believes that ages 15-18 are often some of the most critical years for figuring out what you want to do. She enjoyed working with the Swarovski crystals as a medium because the Swarovski brand is all about texture and that is something her own handbag line also embraces. She said, “the designs are all named after women I have met who inspired me because when you think about what makes a person beautiful it’s all the different textures and layers coming together.” She wanted to represent that in her designs as well and played with different ways to incorporate the crystals such as embroidery and crystal encrusted clasps. The Khirma line is all about being fearless and feminine and making it all happen inspired by Khirma’s own experiences.

The collection was definitely dazzling and the bags could be seen sparkling from across the store drawing interest from customers.

It was great to see so many people coming out to enjoy lunch on the café patio on the sunny Los Angeles day in support of young people and creative industry. 

What's Next for Fashion and Feminism?

Image via Instagram @Dior

While feminism has always been an important issue to many in the fashion industry there's no doubt it has recently become "trendy" again in the media as well as for major players in the fashion industry. Fashion houses have been scrambling to recruit popular female celebrity spokeswomen as the new face for their brands. Several major houses also had shake-ups with their creative directors last year and have responded to the recent revival of the feminist movement by highlighting  their appointment's of women to top leadership roles. Most recently Givenchy announced Claire Waight Keller as the next Couturier for the house but they are only the latest in a long line including Oscar de la Renta who announced Laura Kim as co-creative director last fall (which you can read about in my interview with the CEO here), David Yurman who announced Gabriella Forte as CEO, and perhaps most notably Dior whose own Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted her first collection for the house in 2016 entitled "We should all be feminists". 2016 also saw the launch of the "I am poison campaign" from Dior featuring a fiercely dressed Camille Rowe saying "I am not a girl. I am poison." in a commercial that's reminiscent of the 90s punk scene.

Image via Instagram @Dior

The runways of major fashion weeks this past year were also filled with chokers, power suits, menswear inspired silhouettes and traditionally empowering colors such as blacks and reds. Basically, we can confidently say that #girlboss style has officially made it to the big leagues. 

But, could there be another trend brewing under the surface of this feminist fashion revival? 

Image via Instagram @Dior 

Dior's We Should All Be Feminists collection is represented by the simple white t-shirt with the collections title on it in bold black print and Maria Grazia Chiuri's update to the menswear inspired barsuit from Dior but, the collection also included romantic dresses and skirts in whites and blush and her couture collection at Paris Fashion Week was even more feminine. Inspired by Dior's love for impressionism it featured soft colors, delicate tulle layering, and full skirts. 

On the retail front, despite facing a major PR disaster in February Ivanka Trump's brand of feminine businesswear for women has sales up by 33% on Amazon and 29.5% at Bloomingdale's according to this CNN Money article. 

Fashion designers and consumers are redefining what it means to be a feminist with a more inclusive view of women and femininity and they are finding inspiration from women of all walks of life. While collections from the first fashion month of 2017 have exemplified more of the same dark colors and sharp silhouettes the tide could be changing to a lighter more feminine representation of women's  empowerment. 

Factory Direct Tradeshow in Downtown LA fashion District

I am at Factory Direct Tradeshow in the LA Fashion District this week during LA textile week. Factory Direct is the first curated sourcing tradeshow in LA. Fashion designers throughout LA come out to Factory Direct to start their fashion business. It is a great place for trend spotting in the industry and I'll be doing a recap at the end of this week on trends to look out for in 2016. There is even a fashion show happening later today at 4pm with emerging designers form Los Angeles. The show will have everything from sophisticated business wear to California swimwear designs. I will be updating this post later today with pics from the show so stay tuned! I am giving a seminar tomorrow at 1:30pm on the Digital Marketing Landscape for Fashion in 2016 and I will be talking about new trends in fashion blogging and social media! If you are interested in attending you can register here! Hope to see you there!
Factory Direct tradeshow Emerging Designer showcase Fashion Next
The Fashion next runway show produced by Parris Harris was a huge success and showcased many local talented designers.
The opening show was Vegas couture an eveningwear brand with many satin gowns and beautiful silhouettes.

Rare Jenny was one of my favorites a flirty women's line with a 1940s era influence and fun color palette. Vintage chic is definitely going to be a popular trend this fall.

Lumahai swimwear was another great line and this was the first ever Lumahai runway appearance. The line was especially fun because the twin sister designers were only 16 years old. Their line is sold online and they are hoping to start selling in stores soon. They were inspired to design swimwear by their love of the ocean and their passion for keeping the oceans clean. These young designers are very talented and are sure to be around for awhile.

Another one of my favorite collections was this activewear collection inspired by the California surfer lifestyle. I loved the bright colors and sporty styles of Pacific Ranch brand. The designs were unique because they could be layered with pants swim shorts and wetsuits. The colellection had several pieces with cutouts which will be a big trend for activewear this Fall.

There was this cute childrenswear line and the crowd fell in love with the cute little models who gave adorable poses at the end of the runway. The fun and colorful clothes looked like something any little girl would love.

This show had everything including accessories and I loved these fun designs from JT carpet bags. The bags were made from colorful material and were made in all styles. My favorite was this cute fringe bucket bag. Fringe is definitely going to be big this Fall so this is th perfect addition to my collection of bags!

Another one of my favorite collections was the Courtney Allegra collection which featured fun retro styles  for menswear and womenswear. One of my favorites was this color blocking set.

The show closed with a live performance of a cellist on the stage as the beautiful gowns from evening wear line sfcouture.

On the last day of Factory Direct one of the exhibitors Katmandu Inc. gave out free scarves and I am loving my new accessory! The show was definitely a success and I am looking forward to coming back next year!