Wednesday, September 14, 2022

Perspectives on Sustainability at NYFW

 

This NYFW brought together experts from many industries to discuss sustainability as well as several designers in the Black in Fashion showrooms this season whose focus is on sustainable and lasting design. The theme from this NYFW which coincided with the US Open in New York was all about bringing together cross functional perspectives into the fashion space and events like the Glam Slam which I covered here, as well as the sustainability in design panel at NYFW The Talks did just that according to Sean Nelson CEO and founder of LoveSac who said, "We’re here at fashion week discussing sustainability, furniture, fashion, and sports. What ties it all together? Good design" 

The panel featured Ghanian designer Abrima erwiah model and activist Olivia Ponton, interior design consultant Laura Hodges, and CEO of LoveSac Sean Nelson. 

Each one brought a unique perspective to the topic of sustainability but the overall sentiment of the panel was that everyone can participate in creating a more sustainable future whether in a big or small way and no action is too small to make a difference. 

Nelson founder and CEO of LoveSac the company that makes home furnishings that can be easily reconfigured started out by talking about the design philosophy at LoveSac which he calls "design for life" and believes offers a different path to sustainability. This philosophy has worked well for the company and is something that Sean believes can be applied to all different types of design. 

For Laura she also works with her clients to pick out products that she knows will last and stand the test of time. She spoke about how there have been increased trends in the design world that have mirrored what has happened in the fashion world with fast fashion companies. She often consults her clients to be wary of chasing after too many trends and rather to focus on things that will last 30-40 years or a lifetime. 

Abrima also echoed these ideas that sustainability is something that we weave into the fabric of our everyday lives rather than a far off concept. She said that when she started her label she had not set out to be a "sustainable brand" but was simply following the traditions of Ghana which are heavily focused on creating lasting goods with as little impact to the community as possible. For Abrima following the supply chain was also an important part of setting up her business as she wanted to know where every aspect of her products were coming from. She talked about how the process of understanding how things were made helped her to innovate around it and create more sustainable supply chains. This is also another huge area that is often overlooked in conversations about sustainability but process and supply are areas ripe for innovation. 

For Sean his focus has turned from creating new products to creating scale and offering modifications to existing products rather than forcing customers to purchase entirely new models. Sean has worked to make sure that technological additions to his products such as speaker systems are compatible with even older models of LoveSac products. This perspective can also be applied to other industries as well and offers a more sustainable alternative to mindless consumption. 

Olivia who was originally drawn into her work as a sustainability activist by the pollution of oceans and her love for the sea, also spoke about the importance of thoughtful purchases. She said that for her being able to wear an outfit more than once and being able to re use clothing items was a sign that the clothes were well made and it was a good purchase. She is also a fan of thrifting which can also be a way to make keeping up with fashion trends more sustainable. 

The topic of sustainability touches many industries and Abrima pointed out that it is important not to oversimplify it. She added that understanding why we buy or make something in the first place, along with how to properly dispose of it or not, is also key to creating better habits. When it comes to recycling or getting rid of products good intentions may not be enough and according to Abrima we often don't have to do as much as we think. For her the guiding principle is the connection to humanity and that there isn't a one size fits all answer. 

Laura also added that there is a misconception that sustainability always means compromising design and she has ran into this stereotype with clients in her work as a design consultant. Along the theme of doing less said that she often doesn't advertise the sustainable elements of the products she picks out for her clients but instead focuses on the good design. She added that everyone taking small imperfect actions is often better than a few people doing it perfectly. 

Sean also echoed the importance of good design as a path for sustainability. He said that making products that can be passed down to future generations as well as just making good products overall must be included in the conversation. 

The overall conclusion was that good design is sustainable which is a sentiment many companies in the fashion industry and beyond can benefit from. 

Some young designers are already leading the way. Several of the labels that came to showcase at the Black in Fashion showrooms during Spring Studios this season emphasized good design and lasting products. 

I spoke to the The designer for Madame Adassa a Los Angeles based clothing brand that specializes in luxury women's wear. She spoke to me about her latest collection inspired by an Amazon Queen and said that she always tries to make designs that her customers will keep in their closet for a long time. She stays away from the trends and focuses on classic pieces that her customers can wear for years to come. 

Another designer Kwame Adusei who is originally from Ghana but is now also based in Los Angeles took me through his latest collection and design philosophy which is heavily influenced by traditional Ghana clothing styles. He places an emphasis on practicality and utility in his designs which also make them easy to wear again and again. 

For Isha Dusnton creative director of Izayla, sustainable design ties in with creating pieces made for women on the go. She uses a special material that is made to travel, fold, and last for long wear without wrinkling. When she spoke to me about her latest collection she explained that she was designing for style and color post pandemic but wanted to keep the elements of comfort and practicality that had dominated covid fashion. She said that she is designing for women who are not going backwards to the uncomfortable norms before covid but rather taking the lessons learned and creating a new better way of dressing and living that takes women's comfort and movement into consideration. 

All of this inspiring innovation definitely gives the fashion world something to think about as the conversation around sustainability continues to grow in importance for consumers. 

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