Trends from PROJECT NYC 2023

This year Project NYC was all about creating a cool and curated space to discover what's new in menswear and even some genderless clothing as well. The opening day kicked off with a trends presentation from Moose Tracks. 

I headed through the floor to look for the latest trends as well as discover the up and coming talent in menswear this season. 

I started with this lovely pastel collection by LA based brand no one. The friends and founders created a menswear line that is all about letting go of ego and contrasts utilitarian style with fun colors and embroidery. Guillermo Bravo was another standout brand featuring unique deconstructed styles with removeable pockets, patchwork clothing, and mixed media designs. 

The modern styles are open to genderless styles and focus on high quality designs that add a statement to the everyday. John Carl Yates an NYC based designer displayed pieces from the fall collection inspired by wool. The elevated silhouettes allowed for comfortable and stretchy wool sets that could be mixed and matched with other pieces. I love the cowl neck design that could be worn for either gender. Javelin another NYC brand also stood out as a trend setter with simple and elegant designs that each told a story. 

Jagvi a French brand with stores in Paris presented a contemporary and sustainable collection that brought elements of classic European style to Project. The collection was full of basic pieces perfect for a capsule wardrobe with a few pops of color for statement pieces. This brand was one of my favorite sustainable collections from the show. Other sustainable designers included Natalie Brown New York who creates unisex puffer jackets and other pieces out of recycled vintage t-shirts. Denim brand Gilded Age also based in NYC offers a more unique take on sustainability focusing on making products that are timeless and limiting collection releases. Not giving in to the ever expanding fashion calendar is an important but not often talked about part of reaching sustainable goals for the fashion industry. 

Awet NYC is another sustainable minded brand that focuses on fashion and social change. The brand's founder a refugee who previously worked at the UN brings his unique experience to the fashion industry by organizing events and products around topics such as refugees, women's history month, and more. The brand is also dedicated to helping garment industry workers in NYC who are a vital part of the reason that NYC is such a hub for the fashion industry. 

Loungewear and vacation wear brands including Samuel Zelig, Sundek USA, and Jasper Los Angeles all showed unique takes on the athleisure industry which is still going strong after Covid. Accessories at the show included footwear and eyewear. One of my favorite lines was the sunglasses collection from brutish brand Spitfire eyewear. I also loved some of the more colorful pieces from the GH Bass fall collection. 

The day ended with a fireside chat with Edwina Kulego VP of Project and futurist/influencer Jerome Lamaar about the future of fluidity in fashion and retail. Check out my coverage of the panel in my next article coming soon! 

Perspectives on Sustainability at NYFW

 

This NYFW brought together experts from many industries to discuss sustainability as well as several designers in the Black in Fashion showrooms this season whose focus is on sustainable and lasting design. The theme from this NYFW which coincided with the US Open in New York was all about bringing together cross functional perspectives into the fashion space and events like the Glam Slam which I covered here, as well as the sustainability in design panel at NYFW The Talks did just that according to Sean Nelson CEO and founder of LoveSac who said, "We’re here at fashion week discussing sustainability, furniture, fashion, and sports. What ties it all together? Good design" 

The panel featured Ghanian designer Abrima erwiah model and activist Olivia Ponton, interior design consultant Laura Hodges, and CEO of LoveSac Sean Nelson. 

Each one brought a unique perspective to the topic of sustainability but the overall sentiment of the panel was that everyone can participate in creating a more sustainable future whether in a big or small way and no action is too small to make a difference. 

Nelson founder and CEO of LoveSac the company that makes home furnishings that can be easily reconfigured started out by talking about the design philosophy at LoveSac which he calls "design for life" and believes offers a different path to sustainability. This philosophy has worked well for the company and is something that Sean believes can be applied to all different types of design. 

For Laura she also works with her clients to pick out products that she knows will last and stand the test of time. She spoke about how there have been increased trends in the design world that have mirrored what has happened in the fashion world with fast fashion companies. She often consults her clients to be wary of chasing after too many trends and rather to focus on things that will last 30-40 years or a lifetime. 

Abrima also echoed these ideas that sustainability is something that we weave into the fabric of our everyday lives rather than a far off concept. She said that when she started her label she had not set out to be a "sustainable brand" but was simply following the traditions of Ghana which are heavily focused on creating lasting goods with as little impact to the community as possible. For Abrima following the supply chain was also an important part of setting up her business as she wanted to know where every aspect of her products were coming from. She talked about how the process of understanding how things were made helped her to innovate around it and create more sustainable supply chains. This is also another huge area that is often overlooked in conversations about sustainability but process and supply are areas ripe for innovation. 

For Sean his focus has turned from creating new products to creating scale and offering modifications to existing products rather than forcing customers to purchase entirely new models. Sean has worked to make sure that technological additions to his products such as speaker systems are compatible with even older models of LoveSac products. This perspective can also be applied to other industries as well and offers a more sustainable alternative to mindless consumption. 

Olivia who was originally drawn into her work as a sustainability activist by the pollution of oceans and her love for the sea, also spoke about the importance of thoughtful purchases. She said that for her being able to wear an outfit more than once and being able to re use clothing items was a sign that the clothes were well made and it was a good purchase. She is also a fan of thrifting which can also be a way to make keeping up with fashion trends more sustainable. 

The topic of sustainability touches many industries and Abrima pointed out that it is important not to oversimplify it. She added that understanding why we buy or make something in the first place, along with how to properly dispose of it or not, is also key to creating better habits. When it comes to recycling or getting rid of products good intentions may not be enough and according to Abrima we often don't have to do as much as we think. For her the guiding principle is the connection to humanity and that there isn't a one size fits all answer. 

Laura also added that there is a misconception that sustainability always means compromising design and she has ran into this stereotype with clients in her work as a design consultant. Along the theme of doing less said that she often doesn't advertise the sustainable elements of the products she picks out for her clients but instead focuses on the good design. She added that everyone taking small imperfect actions is often better than a few people doing it perfectly. 

Sean also echoed the importance of good design as a path for sustainability. He said that making products that can be passed down to future generations as well as just making good products overall must be included in the conversation. 

The overall conclusion was that good design is sustainable which is a sentiment many companies in the fashion industry and beyond can benefit from. 

Some young designers are already leading the way. Several of the labels that came to showcase at the Black in Fashion showrooms during Spring Studios this season emphasized good design and lasting products. 

I spoke to the The designer for Madame Adassa a Los Angeles based clothing brand that specializes in luxury women's wear. She spoke to me about her latest collection inspired by an Amazon Queen and said that she always tries to make designs that her customers will keep in their closet for a long time. She stays away from the trends and focuses on classic pieces that her customers can wear for years to come. 

Another designer Kwame Adusei who is originally from Ghana but is now also based in Los Angeles took me through his latest collection and design philosophy which is heavily influenced by traditional Ghana clothing styles. He places an emphasis on practicality and utility in his designs which also make them easy to wear again and again. 

For Isha Dusnton creative director of Izayla, sustainable design ties in with creating pieces made for women on the go. She uses a special material that is made to travel, fold, and last for long wear without wrinkling. When she spoke to me about her latest collection she explained that she was designing for style and color post pandemic but wanted to keep the elements of comfort and practicality that had dominated covid fashion. She said that she is designing for women who are not going backwards to the uncomfortable norms before covid but rather taking the lessons learned and creating a new better way of dressing and living that takes women's comfort and movement into consideration. 

All of this inspiring innovation definitely gives the fashion world something to think about as the conversation around sustainability continues to grow in importance for consumers. 

Celebrities Attend the Ecovvear Fashion Show in Malibu

On Saturday celebrities and influencers came out to Malibu to support the Ecovvear fashion show held at the historic Marwan estate overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The exciting event was hosted by the International Justice Alliance and featured speakers and celebrities who spoke out about important social issues. Actress and influencer Dara Renee hosted the fashion show and spoke about the importance of using fashion to make a statement. The show featured designs from India, and a special collection called the "Walk for Freedom" in support of reforms for wrongful convictions which was a featured topic at the event. The show held poolside at the beautiful Marwan estate was a hit with the crowd and featured a variety of looks that were all ethically designed and conscious of the environment. I spoke to some of the celebrities in attendance on the red carpet about the importance of sustainable fashion including Caitlin O'Connor, Dara Renee, Paris Bravo, Addison Brian, and more! Check out the video below to see their red carpet looks featuring vintage fashion! 

 

No Sew Denim DIY: How to Create the Cutest Painting Apron from an Old Pair of Jeans

After doing some spring cleaning I always seem to find that one pair of jeans that just aren't in style anymore. I decided to re purpose my old denim that doesn't fit into this cute apron! I love this idea because I am an artist in my free time but this apron can also work for cooking or really any messy hobby you might have! I am all about upcycling and this is a great way to find a new use for an old pair of jeans and they don't even have to be your size! And the best part is you can easily do this project without a sewing machine!
You can find most of the materials in your house too!

What You'll Need

1. Old pair of jeans with pockets on the back
2. Ribbon
3. a piece of lace or ruffle
4. fabric glue

Step 1. Cut the back out of the jeans 

This will be the part you use for your apron. The back two pockets are already sewn in for you so you don't have to make your own pockets! Cut the jeans just above the crotch so that you have a full piece. When cutting up the side try to get two belt loops one on either side if your jeans have belt loops. You'll use these later to attach the ribbon.

Step 2. Attach lace or ribbon along the bottom of the apron

Use the fabric glue to attach the lace or ribbon along the bottom of the apron in a straight line. Your apron may have a wrinkle towards the bottom depending on how close you cut to the crotch of the jeans. Attach the ribbon above this wrinkle. Once you have glued on the ribbon you can cut along the bottom of the apron to remove any denim that is showing and that will help to get rid of the wrinkle.

Step 3. Tie Ribbon to Belt Loops

Now you take two pieces of ribbon and tie them to the belt loops on either side of the apron. You can also fold the ribbon over the belt loop and glue it down if you don't want a knot showing. Make sure the ribbon pieces are long enough to tie around your waist as this is how you'll put the apron on!

Step 4. Enjoy! 

Now you have a finished apron to wear for your next crafting project! You can decorate the apron with fabric markers or glitter if you wish! I happened to have an old pair of jeans that already had flowers on the back so I didn't need to do any extra decorating.

I hope this idea helps you next time you come across a pair of jeans you just don't want anymore! It can even be a fun project to do with your friends and have everyone bring their own pair of jeans! It can really be done anywhere since you don't need a sewing machine!

CFDA Celebrates Earth Day with Sustainable Designers at Fred Segal in Hollywood

Check out my article for Hollywood glam magazine to read all about this event!

On Friday night Hollywood’s most fashionable crowd turned
out for the CFDA celebration of Earth Day at Fred Segal on sunset boulevard
featuring 7 handpicked sustainable designers. The crowd enjoyed wine and organic
appetizers from the Fred Segal café. Customers were excited to check out the exclusive
new fashions on display. There were a variety of designers showcasing at the
event and each of them had their own definition of sustainability that came
through in their unique styles.

 A young hip brand
called Everyone Wins was particularly eye catching to guests and designer, Alan
Eckstein was excited to see his creations come to life in the store. In an
exclusive interview with the young creative, Eckstein shared the inspiration behind
his one-year old brand made exclusively from recycled vintage clothing. The name
is an apt description for what Eckstein describes as his “latest creative experiment”
where he hunts down old vintage pieces and combines them to create unique one
of a kind items. According to Eckstein he “mixes the old with the new” which is
more of a philosophy to live by than a brand for him. He described how
satisfying it is to see clothes get a second and third life when a happy
customer wears one of his pieces. A true fashion lover Eckstein gushed that he “loves
getting into the craft” and eagerly took me through some of his favorite pieces.
Eckstein said one of the reasons he loves vintage so much is that the clothes
are so well made and meant to last. He told me, “vintage is something I’ve
always loved because it’s really the only way I get to wear truly nice pieces
in my everyday life” When I asked him if he had a favorite he immediately pulled
out a black cardigan that he explained was one of his first pieces for the
collection.

Eckstein told me why this piece was so close to his heart saying, “my
grandfather owned an embroidery factory in the 50s and these are french” as he
pointed to the delicate sparkly appliques he had decoratively placed on the
cardigan.

“They’re really high quality and you just don’t see stuff
like this anymore” he continued.

“It’s so cool because these were in my mom’s closet and now
they’re on a cardigan in Fred Segal” he said, reminding us that recycling isn’t
just for junkyards.

Eckstein continued saying that he is a New Yorker at heart
but has become very inspired by the Cali culture. He aims to incorporate the “ease
and freedom” into his brand because to him it resonates with his vison for Everyone
Wins.

Next, I spoke to Christopher, a designer from the brand Nicholas
K. which was also featured at the event. Nicholas K. takes a slightly different
approach to creating eco-friendly fashion. Check out these clips from my talk with Christopher over at Hollywood Glam Magazine's Youtube channel and read below for the full interview!




According to Christopher the brand takes
a personal style approach to fashion which Christopher described as a modern
urban nomad look. He said they mostly try to stay away from trends. The brand
is all about making things that people cherish. “having less but better things
is our philosophy” said Christopher. He believes that in today’s world the
modern customer is always on the move and prizes multi use pieces that can
travel well. “We like a casual feeling in terms of how it feels on the body but
we like a more sophisticated look. No sweatpants at an event like this. So we
try and create things that feel like sweatpants but look more sophisticated.”
he told me. He showed off one of the brands most popular pieces, a grey cape
that could be worn two ways.

He said, “This is an iconic piece. I’m all for comfort and
this piece is so versatile. That’s the key to sustainability,  is creating something that people don’t want
to get rid of.”

He described the organic materials they use citing how important
it is to find natural fibers. He explained that it takes 3 pounds of chemicals
to make synthetic cotton and none to use organic cotton. They even source some
fibers locally in their home state of New York. Christopher said they mostly
used organic cotton, linen, and tangese cotton from Peru. He talked about how
it appeals to their customer because people have been slowly becoming more
aware of what they are putting on their bodies.

“It was an evolution, first it started with what people were
eating, then it moved to beauty and what they were putting on their skin, and now
people are starting to think about what they wear” he said. It also makes
practical sense for customers to buy organic materials according to Christopher
since dying fibers destroys the fabric making it weaker and more likely to tear
due to the high temperatures in dye houses.

Christopher said, “the moment when people realize what a difference
it really makes is when they sleep in organic fibers. Al lot of people don’t realize
that the leggings and things that are so popular right now are made out of these
synthetic fibers. But your sleep will be totally different when you try it and then
you can’t go back.”

The brand also stays away from reptile skins and they’ve moved
away from exotic furs as well. Christopher said they use a “no waste” approach
when deciding on animal materials meaning they don’t use anything that was
killed for the sole purpose of fashion.

The brand is also conscious about the labor they outsource
wanting to make sure it is eco friendly and ethical. He said they use artisan
handmade looms in India for a lot of their work because the industry employs
around 10 million rural women in India who often have no other means of income.

The Tangese cotton they get from Peru also helps to employ
rural communities and according to Christopher, using Peruvian cotton is worth
it since they grow it 6 times a year compared to the standard single crops
found in other places.

Other brands showcasing at the event included Tome, Alabama
Chanson, and Yeohlee. According to Victoria Urso, a representative from the
CFDA, each brand was chosen for their work with sustainability and all are members
of the CFDA.

Urso showed off several different items from the
collections. The Alabama Chanson collection was another crowd favorite and
according to Urso its designed right here in the USA at a local factory in Alabama.
The designer uses organic cotton and hand sews many pieces herself as well. This
brand creates business locally while also remaining sustainable and stylish.

The event also featured an all natural perfume brand called
Behnaz. The creator uses fresh flower extracts and she told me, “most people
thin k perfume is complicated and made by an expert, but I wanted to make something
that was very close to nature, like smelling a bouquet of flowers. It’s a little
bit more like wine making.”

These designers were a great reminder that staying
eco-conscious comes in all shapes and sizes and, any effort helps. The theme of
the night seemed to be that no matter what materials you use or what kind of
designs you make, it’s important to make clothes that are meant to last. It
really can be as easy as Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, Style!

Why Doesn't Sustainable Fashion Sell?

A post shared by SierraClair (@cerisesdumatin) on Mar 17, 2015 at 11:19am PDT

The fashion industry is no stranger to environmental issues. In fact several have even called the textile industry one of the biggest polluters in the world. Fast Fashion retailers and trends have contributed to the industry's environmental footprint in recent years. Americans are estimated to throw away around 12.8 million tons of clothes per year according to an article from the Yale school of Forestry and Environmental studies. That amounts to approximately 70-80 pounds per person which, according to some reports, is double what an American would have thrown away two decades ago. Many Americans don't realize that their donated clothes often end up in landfills thereby contributing to added waste.  When donated are sent overseas, it can negatively impact the local economy.  Industry standards for quality and wearability have also declined across the board from fast fashion to luxury brands.

The textile industries in places like China and India who produce the majority of the western world's textiles also contribute to waste as regulations are lax leading to the pollution of rivers and low cost dyeing processes overtax the water supply in these regions. Places like the FIDM institute of textile sciences in Los Angeles are constantly researching new and more environmentally friendly processes for producing textiles. Several startups around the US have already begun processes for breaking down recycled textiles to create even stronger and better materials such as Seattle based Evernu. In some cases companies are even growing their own textiles using chemical processes and organic materials like grapes. Designers have also been experimenting with bioprinting a process that uses bacteria to create pigments that are less damaging to the environment. 

Retail giants like Target and Macy's have also contributed to the decline in industry standards by enforcing increasingly strict return policies on last call discount items online and in store that encourage consumers to throw away clothes that they don't like or that don't fit rather than return them. Another problem that contributes to the throw away clothing culture is the decline of tailoring services and the one-size-fits-all retail mindset. Many stores that used to offer tailoring in store with the purchase of items like a dress or a suit no longer offer these services and local tailoring shops are few and far between. The ones that do exist are inundated with orders during busy times like prom season and can barely keep up with the demand because most dresses and suits still need some work after they have been purchased. Since many younger consumers don't have the skills to mend clothes that tear or replace lost buttons and tailoring isn't readily available their clothes end up in the trash even if they are still wearable. 

Several companies including fast fashion giant H&M have introduced recycling programs that give consumers discounts for donating old clothes, but so far the programs have only returned a fraction of the millions of clothes sold by these retailers every year. Consumer behavior still seemingly favors the fast fashion mindset of buying new clothes all the time rather than just a few times a year, making it hard for traditional brands to compete. However trends have also recently shown an increasing interest in more quality pieces and vintage or upcycled finds. Rather than trying to convince consumers to recycle their old clothes, brands that stand behind their products while still delivering stylish pieces are attracting attention from consumers tired of keeping up with the ever expanding retail calendar. 

Several American companies including Levi Strauss and Co., New Balance, and Misfit have also been working to create more sustainable processes for their products as well as use recycled or organic materials in their designs. Misfit, a company that creates fitness trackers and other wearable tech, partnered with Swarovski in 2015 to create an affordable solar powered activity tracker that eliminated the need for harmful lithium batteries. As fashion and technology continue to overlap, companies like Misfit are thinking about ways to reduce e-waste while still making stylish products. Creating and selling sustainable fashion seems like a good idea for brands looking to improve their image and increase sales, however often times the investment doesn't pay off as many consumers are still reluctant to purchase items marked "eco-friendly" or "made using recycled materials." 

The problem isn't that consumers don't want to purchase eco-friendly products though, but rather they fear a decreased quality or lifespan for the pieces as environmentally friendly products have a bad reputation of wearing out quickly. Consumers who are already tired of clothes that wear out after one or two washes are reluctant to purchase items that look more like a PR stunt than a product that will hold up to a brand's reputation. Unfortunately style and sustainability are still two competing concepts when it comes to the fashion industry and many brands that have a reputation for being eco-friendly also have a reputation for being boring and ill fitting. Brands that rely on environmentally conscious products as their only selling point lose the ability to appeal to a mainstream audience because they look more like a passing trend than a company that will make it in a competitive industry. Price is also a barrier to sustainable products and consumers are reluctant to pay more for a product that isn't personalized or stylish and doesn't look like it will last even if it is environmentally friendly. Sometimes the way sustainable brands are portrayed in the media also contributes to their lack of success and talking about eco-friendly fashion as the new norm rather than an exciting fad that could quickly go out of style can contribute to more mainstream popularity for green fashion.
Frances Kozen, Associate Director Cornell Institute Fashion & Fiber told the New York Times that her overall mantra was to "buy less and wear more (or longer)" in an interview last month. Ultimately the best way brands can work to reduce their environmental impact and help the fashion industry to become more sustainable is by conducting thorough research when sourcing materials and creating quality products that are meant to last. Consumers are looking for brands they can trust and standing behind a product will not only help to reduce waste but also create customer loyalty for struggling companies. To learn more about the future of sustainable fashion read my interview with Kristine Upesleja the Textiles and Materials manager at FIDM in Los Angeles and check out her blog here .