New Designers at NYFW To Watch This Season

While NYFW has been back from Covid for two official seasons now this may be the first season many people feel is a true New York Fashion Week experience. CFDA CEO Steven Kolb opened fashion week on Thursday night at Gracie Mansion and according to an article on FashionNetwork.com he stated, “This season is about power and action. Of course the pandemic meant a gradual return but this is finally full on fashion week.”

But for many in the industry fashion week is full of new faces and new challenges this season and rather than feeling a familiar return there is a new energy in the air. In an exclusive interview industry veteran Bridget Foley who previously worked as Executive Editor of WWD for over a decade stated, “New York fashion week has always been about finding new designers and new talent but I think what we’re seeing this season is a revalidation.” Industry experts have noted that this season in many cases reflects a selection of new designers and up and coming talent that has not been offered in past years. Some notable up and coming brands to watch include Deity New York, Fe Noel, Puppets and Puppets, Wiederhoeft and more. Foley noted that while it can be very difficult for new designers to pull together a show we are seeing a revalidation on the promise of what new talent can bring to the industry.

Foley also said,“The fashion industry has a sense of community which is very important. And we are seeing many new faces in the audience with influencers, social media, etc. which is great. The fashion industry is one of the most kinetic industries in the world and has continued to evolve.” Among those new faces includes New York State Governor Kathy Hochul and Mayor Adams of NYC who have both been spotted attending events this season and last season. This in itself speaks to the revalidation of the fashion show as well as this specific fashion week. Foley said, “I think that we’ve realized we can’t take it for granted. Fashion is an enormous industry that accounts for many jobs and millions of dollars. In NYC it’s very diverse and we’re seeing more points of view. It’s very important for the people in power to recognize that.” She went on to say that she has noticed a renewed focus on the importance of supporting new talent with the potential to create powerful and successful businesses and give opportunities to new designers and brands.

While new faces are one side of the coin the lack of some familiar faces from the scene should also be noted. Some brands who were fixtures on the NYFW calendar for years such as Ralph Lauren (who instead chose to show in LA this October) are not showing this season.

When discussing the changing dynamics of this week’s lineup Foley said, “We’re seeing a clarification of what the fashion show means.” She noted that many brands have shown an increased selectivity when choosing to participate in fashion week or not saying, “Even the most low key show is very very expensive to put on. Some brands have realized the money could be better spent on other things.”

She added, “I love fashion shows. But it’s true that sometimes it’s not the best way to communicate the aesthetic for that brand or collection.” With consumers tightening their belts and many brands still rebounding from Covid losses budgets have become a deciding factor in many brands decision to put on a live show. Foley noted, “Some brands realize they just can’t afford it.” Covid has forced a collective step back and offered all of us the chance to evaluate what is truly important in our lives and what we want to spend our energy on and this is true for the fashion industry as well.

Of course many fan favorites are still showing this season. Foley pointed out that for many designers fashion week creates a creative rhythm that is hard to replace. She said. “Many designers design for the show and that’s something that plays into it.”

However, if bigger brands are generally cutting back on fashion show spending, how can new brands with even tighter budgets afford to participate?

Foley said, “It’s so hard for young designers to get established. Staging a fashion show is enormously expensive.” She added that new designers also must consider if they will stand out against major brands and get noticed or if they will be lost in the chaos of fashion week news. In order to put on a successful show designers must pull together sponsors for hair and makeup, find venues, and hire models and support staff.

According to designer Renee Bishop of the up and coming brand Deity New York putting together this season’s show was According to designer Renee Bishop of the up and coming brand Deity New York putting together this season’s show was not an easy road but she was ultimately able to create the event she had envisioned.  She recounted the experience of putting together her first full fledged runway show in contrast with last season’s presentation format in which the clothes were displayed on mannequins saying, “With pressure comes diamonds, and that’s how I feel about putting together my second runway collection, after presenting last season in a presentation format.  My team and I started back in June, right after we presented the Deity resort collection.  Spring / Summer looks great…filled with texture and color; it’s this mix of the natural and manufactured. I can’t wait for it to be in the runway! New York is so wonderful to present in for all its diversity. New York Fashion Week is for everyone and that makes it all the more special.

Despite the challenges the industry has faced navigating the post covid fashion week landscape many are still excited for the return to in person events. Foley said, “It’s interesting that for all of the alternatives no group of options has emerged as a really sound alternative to fashion week.” For Foley there is no other moment like a fashion show. She feels that whether it is in person or on a screen it is a truly powerful experience for brands and audience alike to feel the magic of a live fashion show and presenting a new collection for the first time. She said she feels it can often be the strongest way to communicate a collection’s aesthetic.

One of the ways fashion week has been adapting to these new norms is by creating more involved partnerships with sponsors. One example is UPS who has partnered with fashion week the past two seasons by highlighting small designers from minority communities. Designers and UPS have worked together to create new ways of partnering up. Angelo Baque streetwear designer and founder of Awake New York said that his vision is to create new norms for corporate partners and ensure that giving back to the community is the first priority. 

According to UPS brand representative Carlos Cuerto, "UPS is ecstatic about the opportunity to support New York Fashion Week. We are developing a very strong partnership and committed to the development of fashion designers and the fashion industry as a whole. UPS is a catalyst of their growth as well because once they scale and you know designers, launch their brands and commercialize their products, UPS wants to serve as a partner when they ship it, you know, and they conquer new markets domestically and internationally. UPS wants to be part of that growth. We are committed to the support of underrepresented minorities and we know that fashion serves as an avenue to access a lot of diversity like latinx, women, also African American owned businesses so we want to make sure that we serve as a catalyst for their growth." 

It will be interesting to see how these partnerships and runway shows evolve as fashion designers navigate this new landscape and more exciting developments continue to grow! 

Glam Slam at NYFW: Laura Brown and Maria Sharapova Talk Tennis, Fashion and More!

 

Laura Brown former Editor of InStyle Magazine and fashion expert interviewed Tennis and fashion icon Maria Sharapova about her style, life after tennis, and more on the opening day of NYFW Glam Slam events which are bringing together fashion and sports for the first time at NYFW. The event featured a pop-up, gourmet snacks, Rose by Ott Wines, and amazing rooftop views overlooking downtown. The glamourous event brought fans of tennis and fashion out to enjoy an afternoon discussing style and a special screening of the US Open. 

Laura Brown wore a flowy maxi dress by Australian designer Dena Pharaoh Pezzano. Brown said, "Extremely excited to be here at the Glam Slam! Just finished a great chat with the inimitable Maria Sharapova, I love her, always been a fan of hers, and we sort of pseudo know each other socially, so it's nice to be out here under an umbrella."

When I asked her about her look for the event she said, "Oh, it’s actually a really beautiful Australian brand called Saloon Design House by two lovely girls from New South Wales" 

Maria Sharapova wore a bright red coat over her jeans and jokingly referred to the hot day saying, "Here I am in a coat the things we do for fashion!" The weather was definitely warm and made for a hot but sunny event that still had guests feeling like it was summer. The conversation then turned to fashion obviously and Sharapova described her first experiences with defining her style on the court recounting a time at Wimbledon early in her career when her opponent showed up in the same Nike dress as her. She recalled that was when she realized that she wanted to wear her own unique styles on the court. She said, "I wanted to have my own perspective and point of view represented." She told the audience that she believes that what players wear give them strength since it is like their version of a uniform. 

As for her taste in high fashion she recalled that it developed when she started attending events off the court and at a Wimbledon ball she fell in love with a Louis Vuitton piece. She said, "That was when I started understanding fashion." She recalled, "The first fashion show I ever went to was Marc Jacobs." She also described the process she went through as a public figure learning about how the fashion world worked with stylists, borrowing clothes from designers, and how many people want to influence your style. She described her process of learning about the industry saying, "Like, it was, I always kinda had a lot of slack for having a passion in fashion or design, or like, people, it didn’t quite resonate with people, like you can’t be good at that and that, like, they just wanted to separate those buckets, which I didn’t really realize, I think, because I was too young, but I was very curious to learn and I’d put myself out there in these meetings that were, you know, like for older people, not me, but I learned a lot, you know? I would come out of those meetings, and I think it takes a lot to raise your hand and ask a question as opposed to always have an answer, and you know it probably takes confidence and letting go of your self-esteem, and allowing people to teach you.” Many women face steretyping or are met with confusion for having what can seem like conflicting passions. But Sharapova was able to combine her interests and overcome the obstacles even at such a young age which was so inspiring. 

Brown asked the tennis icon how she felt about the game today and whether the fashions on the court have changed. Sharapova said, "I feel like players have a lot more say in what they wear a feel like there is a lot of fearless fashion confidence and risk taking. It's important to be original. When I went on court I remember wanting my style to represent elegance." And even off court today the fashion icon still has an elegant wardrobe. 

Since leaving tennis and becoming a mom Sharpaova has started many new ventures. She discussed the transition from pro athlete status saying, "My career taught me time management. When you are a female who has a strong platform, you need a sense of self esteem to move on." She is now working on her business plans and is investing in women owned companies and businesses she believes in. And she still keeps tennis on in the background at her house or Friends reruns. The inspirational mom said, "I've seen it from the side of being a woman in that spot that didn't have equal pay and that's always been a fight for us so I'm continuing that from the business side as well." Some of her proudest achievements included being open to learning new things, not knowing everything and putting herself in the position to ask questions and seek guidance anyways. According to the star these are all things she plans on taking into the business world as well. 

Of course the topic of equal pay can't be discussed without the mention of Venus Williams and Sharapova said, "She's such an inspiration. She wanted to go out fighting with grit and grace and she did. I've watched her stand up for equal prize money and equal pay throughout her career." Laura Brown added "and sparkles! When in doubt wear sparkles." referencing the amazing looks Venus has served up during the US Open this year filled with glitter and crystals. Seeing women who are standing up for what they believe in and looking good while doing it is the ultimate goal. 

Sharapova ended the panel with advice for the next generation saying, "I always stay hungry for more. As a woman when you're at the top of your game you're often faced with a lot of adversity. It doesn't get easier." 

It was a truly inspiring panel and a great way to kick off NYFW!

NYFW Report Day 4: Looking to the Future with Virtual Fashion

New York Fashion Week returned in person this season with a stellar lineup of fashion shows and presentations from new designers and household names alike. However, several major brands chose to remain virtual including Jonathan Simkhai, Alice and Olivia, and more. It seems this pandemic practicality is here to stay for the fashion world. At NYFW: The Talks a panel of experts explored what we can expect from virtual fashion shows, the metaverse, and more in the future. 

The panel held at Spring Studios included experts on the Metaverse, digital fashion design, fashion marketing, and Vogue Business Senior Innovation Editor Maghan McDowell. 

The panelists focused on the future of fashion in the metaverse and how designers and brands can continue to reach customers in an increasingly virtual world. One major theme the panelists covered was the virtual fashion show. While live streams and fashion films have been around for years, technical advances in the metaverse and the rapid digital adoption that occurred during Covid have given a new meaning to the term virtual fashion show. Now, audience members can participate in virtual runway shows as if they were really there, using personalized avatars and even gaining special access to backstage footage. While virtual fashion shows allow people to participate from anywhere including the comfort of their own homes, it doesn't necessarily mean that the shows will be any less exclusive. For luxury brands, virtual fashion shows offer another avenue to provide a personalized experience for VIP customers around the world. Virtual fashion also provides for endless creativity and the panelists agreed that virtual shows are a great way to find out what fashion can look like when it is not confined by the laws of physics. Some exciting design possibilities could be in our future and as Maghan McDowell pointed out, we could even get to wear virtual fashion items while on Zoom! 

The panelists also discussed the future of how physical clothing items will integrate with virtual worlds. According to panelist John Lynden, CEO of Mythical Games, video games and virtual worlds offer the perfect environment for luxury brands to test out virtual pieces of fashion to an existing customer base. Panelist Umindi Francis CBO at Infinite World agreed that studying use cases and the success of exclusive digital merchandise in video games is a great way for brands to dip their foot into the future of digital commerce. According to the panelists, a future where every luxury purchase comes with a digital twin in the metaverse could be closer than we think. There are numerous benefits to this idea and panelist Daria Shapovalova and CEO of a virtual fashion store DressX pointed out that it would make verifying luxury items in the resale market fast, easy, and accurate. Perhaps more so than ever before. 

Some brands like Dior, have already begun to test out the virtual world partnering with video games to offer exclusive products while other luxury brands have partnered with young creators to inform on strategy. According to the panelists, the new perspectives have been energizing for everyone involved. According to Umindi Francis just as social media has become a key marketing strategy for fashion brands, a Web 3 strategy will be key in the future and a successful Web 3 strategy must include collaboration. 

Whether the metaverse was always an inevitable part of fashion's future or our post-pandemic world has created this opportunity one thing is clear: virtual fashion is here to stay. 

NYFW Ones to Watch: Colin Locascio AW22 Presentation

 The Colin Locascio presentation on the final day of NYFW may have been a quiet event compared to some of the more well known shows of the season but it was not one to miss! I am labeling this designer as one to watch as the style and skill in this breakout collection definitely stood out. 

Colin Locascio who is a new designer on the scene made his NYFW debut with a brightly colored Autumn Winter collection full of whimsical designs and surprising details. The designer may be new to having his own label but he has spent several years in the industry working for some of the top brands such as Marc Jacobs and designing custom pieces for celebrities including Kendall and Kylie, Bella Hadid, and more. His design background and experience showed through in this season's collection which had notes of Marc Jacobs artistic refinement mixed with loud celebrity style. The collection was described as designed for the outer-borough girls and pays homage to the designer's roots in Queens. 

The collection notes stated, "For AW22, we looked to our favorite Bridge and Tunnel gals from TV -- Adriana from the Sopranos, Betty Suarez from Ugly Betty, and of course Fran from the Nanny to name a few. Each character has her own defined style, and we were interested in mixing the sexy, the quirky, and the absurd. For AW22, we also leaned into a grittier approach to our RTW, referencing the bridge and tunnel teens in the South London Club Scene in the late 80’s early 90's. Key items are our patch worked vegan leather trench and bustier dress, our 3-D crushed velvet floral puffer and micro mini set, our tinsel eyelash knitwear, and our brand signature printed mesh with 3 original prints this season." 

My favorite piece was the 3-d crushed velvet floral puffer and micro mini skirt set.

 This piece incorporated so many trends for the Fall season including bright and unexpected colors, and the elements of whimsical 3-D tech inspired fashion. The idea of bringing creations from the virtual world to life seemed to be a common theme and this was one of my favorite representations. The collection also spoke to the sentiment of recovering from the pandemic and keeping the fun energy going even in the colder months. Another one of my favorite pieces was the puffer that featured fun vibrant prints and from afar looked like a typical streetwear piece but up close had a delicately bejeweled drawstring.

Little elegant details like that were everywhere in this collection giving the clothes a very Hollywood effortless cool touch. No doubt inspired by his work with celebrities a Colin Locascio piece will make any wearer feel like an A-lister. I can't wait to see what's next for this exciting brand! 

NYFW Celebrates Black History Month with Black in Fashion Panel

Fashion month, which kicks off in February during black history month is a great time to showcase the diversity of talent in the industry. This year NYFW held a panel featuring black creators from all areas of the industry to celebrate the "Black in Fashion" community. NYFW also featured a special showcase of designers called BLK Showroom that honored black designers. 

The panel featured several successful fashion industry professionals from the black community including Moana Luu Global Chief Content officer of Essence Magazine, Aurora James designer and founder of the 15 percent pledge, and Rashad Robinson President of the Color of Change. 

The panelists discussed the progress that had been made in the industry and what challenges still lay ahead. It was an empowering discussion full of positive energy! In recent years there has been an increased focus from corporations and the fashion industry as a whole on diversity and inclusion work. The panelists pointed out that despite increased commitments and funding from many corporations it is still hard to measure the results of these investments. One important point they all agreed on was increased accountability for such programs and funding. The panelists agreed it is important for everyone to know where this money is going and also pointed out that DEI work cannot be treated differently within an organization. "DEI cannot be the only place in a company that fails year over year. with no consequences." said Rahsad Robinson. 

This issue is not exclusive to the fashion industry but nevertheless, it was great to hear what is needed from the voices within the community.

Moana Luu brought up another important point when it comes to corporate structure. She highlighted the importance of having diversity at all levels of a company and ensuring that diversity was not just targeting one group but representing everyone including women, and people from all ethnicities. She pointed out that black stories are often told from a narrow point of view and they do not include people who identify with multiple ethnicities. She also spoke about the power of social media and how it has opened opportunities for people to share their voices and be heard. It was so informative to hear from the perspective of a woman who has worked for a large publication throughout her career. She said, "Social media has become the real media...the power is ours today not the media's". The panelists echoed her thoughts pointing out many black creators who were at first rejected traditional roles within the industry but found success and an audience on social media. She also pointed out that when diverse mentors are promoted it benefits the whole company and gives younger workers someone to connect with and learn from. This point about creating more accessible networking for young professionals in the industry is so important. She ended the panel with an inspiring statement telling everyone, "Life is about opportunity you have to ask for what you want." 

NYFW Day 2: Deity New York, Thriving with Thrifting, and More!

The second day of NYFW was another busy day filled with shows and events around the city. I started my morning off heading to the Tiffany Brown show held at Slate NY in the flatiron district. The young designer made her NYFW debut this season with a fun and flirty collection. This collection departed from many of the major designers in that it did not feature bright colors for winter and stuck with more traditional tones such as browns and nudes. However, the dresses and looks were infused with a young and fun spirit often featuring cut outs and matching separates. 

After this show I headed back to Spring studios for the Second lifestyle panel featuring a discussion with some of the city's leading vintage dealers. The panel featured Emma Rogue TikTok star who recently opened her own vintage boutique in the city, Mina Le fashion and culture analyst and Marie Laboucarie founder of Nina Gabbana vintage. The panel was moderated by Vogue vintage fashion writer Liana Satenstein. 

I closed out the night at the Deity New York presentation which was also held at Spring studios in the lounge. This sophisticated collection featured some of my favorite colors including fuchsias with bow accents and glitter. I loved the tailoring and sharp styles in this collection as it was perfect for a businesswoman on the go but also retained feminine qualities with the pretty details. The presentation featured free sparkling beverages for guests to enjoy while admiring the collection on display along with the collection video which was playing in the background. 

  

NYFW Day 1: 11 Honore Brings Diversity to the Runway at NYFW

To close out my first day of NYFW I attended the 11 Honore show at Spring Restaurant and lounge. The designer presented an amazing lineup of everyday staples for women of all sizes. The runway stretched throughout the whole restaurant and guests enjoyed complimentary rose as everyone mingled waiting for the show to begin. The collection featured bold and bright colors that emerged as a trend for this Fall during Fashion week. There were hot pinks, greens. electric blues and more. 

The clothing style reflected everyday wear as well as a few evening wear pieces. Silky button up shirts, pencil skirts, and pantsuits were the main staples. These pieces were particularly interesting as they were made specifically for women with different body types and the models in the show represented all sizes and shapes. It was a refreshing showing of diversity from an up and coming NYFW designer Danielle WIllimas Eke. While in recent years we have seen more variety in runway shows from some fashion designers the standard show especially during official fashion weeks remains lacking in diverse body types. It was great to see fitted clothing and button up shirts made for plus sizes as the clothing was made to fit rather than being a scaled copy of a design made for petite body types. The different tailoring and styling elevated the looks and showcased classic silhouettes. 

According to the press release , "11 Honoré is a multi-brand ecommerce destination for fashion that fits. 11 Honoré Collection’s on-trend styling and approachable price point ensures that the entire plus community has access to off-the-moment fashion. This is designer Danielle Williams Eke’s second collection with the brand. 11 Honoré and Afterpay’s partnership is built on the notion of accessibility and democratizing fashion. With a mission to unlock access to NYFW for consumers across the country, Afterpay has partnered with 11 Honoré to debut its first-ever "see now, buy now, pay in four" show during NYFW. This is a "first" for the inclusive plus-size designer, who will be giving shoppers across the U.S. a front row seat from the comfort of their own home, with the opportunity to buy items directly from the runway and pay for them over time using their own money." 

“In the last five years 11 Honore has brought the plus size fashion community so far, and there is much work to be done to make fashion more inclusive, and tonight was another great step,” 11 Honoré Founder Patrick Herning said. “I’m grateful to IMG and Afterpay for allowing us the opportunity to once again be front and center at NYFW, leading the conversation for inclusivity on the runway.”  “Working in plus size fashion for many years, customers consistently ask for the same thing: to be included in the global fashion conversation. I’m honored to be a part of pushing the conversation forward. This collection is a celebration of the plus community that I’ve had the privilege to be a part of, but also, a declaration to the fashion industry that this customer is here to stay!” said Eke. 

After the show Eke came out to celebrate a successful night and mingle with guests. She described her collection saying, "Travel has been a huge inspiration to me as a designer. I love seeing style within different cities and cultures and I love applying that to my design process."  The audience applauded with enthusiasm and everyone had a great time enjoying the evening. 

Bicoastal Brands: The Art of Rodarte Comes to NYFW

This year NYFW opening day kicked off with a very special panel featuring Kate and Laura Mulleavy the sisters and founders of Rodarte and moderated by Euphoria star Maude Apatow. The pair came out from California to celebrate the opening of the special exhibit The Art of Rodarte celebrating 10 years of the brand and featuring some of the most artistic creations from their work over the years. The exhibit was open to the public all week with reservations and at the exclusive panel, the sisters shared their excitement of seeing the exhibit come to life for the first time on opening day. I was so excited to be covering this LA brand and to see them headlining at NYFW. They described the process of curating the exhibit saying, "This exhibition is interesting because we go to curate is ourselves. NYC is a second home for us and this time the exhibition was more about what we wanted to choose." 

The sisters shared the story of their first-ever NYFW where they were discovered by Bridget Foley of WWD.  While visiting a friend in New York City they sent designs to several major publications but never heard anything back. Then Bridget Foley took notice of the collection and ended up putting it on the cover of WWD the day before NYFW! After returning to LA they later got a call from Anna Wintour in the most LA place ever--while sitting in traffic on the 405! 

They also shared some of the inspirations for their design aesthetic and what goes into creating a Rodarte piece. They talked about their design process and how they like to stay very connected to the process by sketching everything on paper. They joked saying, "We are very old-fashioned there's not a lot of technology involved." As for inspiration, they told the audience, "We are very inspired by nature and art history." They shared that over the years they have learned it is important to listen to your gut as a designer. The sisters are very traditional when it comes to their fashion shows as well. They described the importance of having a fashion show for their collections saying, "In a runway show we can tell a story. Being at a sow especially if it's a theatrical performance, it can really take you somewhere. We have a desire to tell stories and create narratives." 

The sisters talked about some of the career-changing moments they had while building their brand including designing costumes for Black Swan. 

They described the experience saying, "Black Swan happened so early in our career. In film you're supporting a performance and it is a special powerful experience. Costume designers need to get credit and pay equity because it is a very important part of the story." Working in film was a special experience for the duo. They explained how it had influenced their careers growing up saying, "We didn't grow up seeing fashion. Film and costume design shaped how we saw fashion." 

They also told stories from one of their more recent projects where they were asked to create designs for the animated film...The white dress they designed for the main character took 1.5 years for the animators to finish! But they shared that it had been an incredible fun project and different from what they had done before. "We're dreamers." They concluded. 

The sisters ended the panel with inspiring remarks for aspiring fashion designers saying, "Fashion is so artistic. We encourage anyone that has love for it to pursue it. Spend the time and dedicate energy to the tings that inspire you."